26 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
Silica microspheres: safe alternative to talc
Michael Sweeney - AGC Chemicals Americas
Once a popular ingredient in cosmetics, talcums and baby powders, talc has come under question for its potential toxicity. Talc is a soft, smooth and natural mineral that is crushed and refined into a fine powder for use in cosmetic formulations. Having similar properties to silica but much
cheaper in cost, talc is a main ingredient in liquid and powder makeup such as blush, eyeliner, eye shadow and foundation. It provides lubrication and improves product texture and feel. When mined from the earth, talc deposits
often are located in close proximity to asbestos, a cancer-causing agent. Therefore, digging for talc too deep or near an overlapping asbestos deposit will capture this contaminant. As a result, mined talc can contain asbestos, creating a risk for cancer.
Talc powder and ovarian cancer Over the years, studies have indicated an observed statistical link between talc containing asbestos and ovarian cancer, but most note that additional scientific research is needed to understand this association. Despite this ambiguous scientific connection between talc, asbestos and ovarian cancer, consumer concerns and legal implications have been quite strong.1 By April 2020, thousands of lawsuits were
filed against Johnson & Johnson alleging a connection between its talc products and diagnoses of cancer. That year, the company announced it would no longer sell its talc-based baby powder product in the United States or Canada, and in August 2022, Johnson & Johnson said it would remove all talcum-based powder products from the global market in 2023.2 By July 2022, Johnson & Johnson was facing
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nearly 38,000 cases regarding its talc products and asbestos and had paid approximately $4 billion in legal settlements and costs. Nine months later in April 2023, as part of bankruptcy proceedings, the company offered $8.9 billon to settle outstanding cases, but plaintiffs rejected the offer.3 Johnson & Johnson is not the only
personal care products company dealing with talc litigation. Many other manufacturers, distributors, brands and retailers of talcum powder have been named in lawsuits and successfully sued.4
Beauty brands moving away from talc While the European Union has banned the use of talc in cosmetic products, no regulations ban talc for cosmetics in the United States. However,
Sensory Comparison Fine Silica Microspheres l l l
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Figure 1: Sensory comparison study demonstrates the benefits of replacing talc with fine silica microspheres in cosmetics and skincare formulations
PERSONAL CARE January 2024
MoCRA (Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022) requires the FDA to issue regulations for standard testing methods to detect and identify asbestos in talc-containing cosmetics by the end of 2023.5 That means another process step for
manufacturers using talc ingredients and the chance of product rejection. Beauty brands such as Revlon, Chanel and
L’Oréal are quietly moving away from using talc in some product formulations as consumer disapproval elevates.6
Their lead likely will
prompt other smaller brands to follow suit. The movement away from talc in cosmetic
products, as well as shortage of inventory as suppliers start to close down, will escalate the need to find a replacement for talc.
Safer than talc Fine silica microspheres offer a safe and viable alternative to talc in the formulation of skincare and cosmetic products such as liquid and loose powders. Natural and environmentally friendly, these fine particles are composed of silicon dioxide, a sustainable material free from petroleum and plastic. The silica microspheres are hard and do not
deform, yet they are soft to the touch and their spherical shape improves rolling for better slip, feel and spreadability.
Superior characteristics for better cosmetics Possessing characteristics often superior to talc, fine silica microspheres are safe additives
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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