Volume 25 Issue 1 WWW.PERSONALCAREMAGAZINE.COM


CONTENTS


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Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Eckart News


75 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers


FEATURES


16 Taking the long road to success DSM-Firmenich personal care president Parand Salmassinia talks to editor Tim Probert about her fascinating journey to become global head of one of the world’s personal care ingredient suppliers, as well as her aspirations in her role at the newly-merged company


20 Formulation Lab shapes up for


Paris show The world’s leading personal care ingredients trade show, in-cosmetics Global, returns to Paris on 16-18 April. Here, event director Roziani Zulkifli gives an exclusive sneak peek of the Formulation Lab. Sponsored by Brenntag and partnered with Personal Care Global, the purpose-built, fully equipped laboratories located on the show floor will offer up to 27 sessions


23 A formulator’s guide to working


with colourants There is considerable art, as well as science, in developing products that meet consumer demand for attractive and functional cosmetics. Here, Kelly Dobos of the University of Cincinnati, USA sets out the principles of working with three classes of colourants - dyes, pigments and pearlescent effect pigments - that can be applied broadly to many types of cosmetic products


26 Silica microspheres: safe 31 Navigating the realm of intimate


care products In recent years, there has been a surge in the development of specialised products designed to maintain and support the wellbeing of women’s intimate areas. However, there is a lack of stringent regulations governing the intimate care niche. Yet we can transform the intimate care industry into a realm of safety, efficacy, and genuine care, as Albert Dashi of Sequential explains


36 Energizing the skin with


phytoglycogen Mibelle Biochemistry describes a new plant-based glycogen, isolated from a special non-GMO sweetcorn, which is chemically identical to glycogen stored in animal cells. In vitro, the phytoglycogen was able to stimulate ATP production and cell metabolism, resulting in increased hyaluronic acid and collagen production


41 Bamboo vacuolar extract to


decrease hair loss Innovacos has developed a hair care ingredient that stimulates the expression of main skin components providing hydration and helping regenerate the hair structure. According to in vitro studies, the bamboo vacuolar extract promotes the viability of essential hair components (HHFK and HHFDPC) and prevents hair ageing increasing KAP5 expression


alternative to talc Michael Sweeney of AGC Chemicals Americas explains why fine silica microspheres are a safe, natural and environmentally friendly alternative to talc in cosmetics and skincare formulations. In addition, fine silica microspheres are said to offer an excellent alternative to microplastic ingredients like Nylon 12 and PMMA


45 Ashwagandha: adaptogenic plant 52 Anti-ageing skincare: learning


from nature Due to evolutionary flaws, we, as humans, are not equipped to age well. CLR has developed a cosmetic active ingredient harnessing decades of skin anti-ageing research by making use of postbiotics, i.e. lysates of probiotic bacteria for the benefit of the skin’s immune system. The ingredient represents the latest innovation of Bifida Ferment Lysate


56 Fermented bioactive for


versatile anti-ageing Bloomage Biotech has harnessed natural green fermentation methods to create ingredients that target multiple anti-ageing pathways to strengthen the barrier of the skin, providing protection against pollutants and UV radiation


61 Making sense of senses for


anti-ageing cosmetics While the demand of consumers for proof behind claims is higher than ever, cutting-edge methods are emerging with smart instrumental approach; opening the way to new skincare claims considering holistically all senses. Codif explains how, thanks to tribology, we are now able to study the benefits of anti-ageing strategy on the texture of the skin through its vibrations and the ‘song’ it emits


65 Natural biomimetic peptides


for skin revival Gattefossé has introduced an all-natural active ingredient designed to rejuvenate the skin. This innovative solution is derived from the roots of ashwagandha, a renowned adaptogenic herb. It harnesses the herb’s inherent vitality-boosting properties while acting as a shield for skin cells against various aggressors, with a specific focus on combatting digital stress


for hair repair Symrise has developed a specific tailor-made process to obtain natural peptides for hair care Composed of native proteins, it will work at the cuticle level to improve hair smoothness, shine and split ends. Utilizing a new strategy to address hair damage, Symrise is now targeting those charged sites within the cortex, creating new interactions and stabilizing the broken bonds in the proteins


70 Hydrolyzed protein-powered


hair care TRI-K delves into the transformative potential of hydrolyzed moringa protein-based technologies in hair care


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