70 HAIR CARE
Hydrolyzed protein- powered hair care
Andrea Serrano Trujillo, Ashley Blouin, Lauren Murphy, Saso Efremovski - TRI-K Industries
Hair is composed largely of proteins (65%- 95%),1
and contains three major structural
components: the cortex, medulla, and cuticle. The cortex provides the bulk of the hair mass and gives hair its tensile strength. Between the protein-rich cells in all three components is a lipid-rich cell membrane complex (CMC) that glues the cell together,2
while simultaneously
forming both a barrier against penetration and the major pathway of diffusion into the hair.3 Chemical treatments, heat or sun exposure
create permanent changes to covalent bonds in the hair. Colouring and bleaching will cleave disulfide bonds and create cysteic acid residues; a change that is irreversible.4
Hair damage will
affect all types of cross-linking bonds. Disulfide bonds are the cross-links between
pairs of cysteine residues on adjacent peptide chains. High levels of disulfide bonds are a unique feature of hair proteins. The matrix proteins contain higher levels of cysteine relative to intermediate filament proteins and are heavily cross-linked with disulfide bonds.5 Ionic bonds form between ionized functional
groups -the basic side groups on arginine, histidine, and lysine, and the acidic side groups on aspartic acid and glutamic acid. Ionic bonds, sometimes called salt linkages, help to construct tertiary and quaternary protein structures that are relatively abundant in hair. Hydrogen bonds form between atoms that
have partial electrical charges, between δ+ hydrogen in a water molecule and δ- oxygen in an adjacent water molecule. They also form between atoms on adjacent protein chains, such as between the δ+ amide hydrogen from a peptide with the δ- carbonyl oxygen of a neighboring peptide. Hydrogen bonds can also form between water molecules and proteins and are important in the creation of secondary protein structures such as α-helixes and β-sheets, and many other protein structures. There is no exact scientific definition of a bond
builder for hair, although some have proposed the following definition: ‘A formulation component that is able to penetrate into the hair and improve or restore the internal structure of hair, giving rise to an improvement in hair mechanical properties.’6 To provide all components of hair with
strength and nourishment, hydrolyzed moringa oleifera protein technology is introduced as a bond reinforcer and rebuilder. Through mechanisms of internal and external repair, hydrolyzed moringa protein will provide the power necessary for hair to withstand damage.
PERSONAL CARE January 2024
Methods and measurements Fluorescence microscopy of cross-sectional hair fibres Proteins are comprised of amino acids which have high substantivity and will attach to damaged sites of the hair to nourish and provide benefits. The specific substantivity and penetration of moringa hydrolyzed protein was evaluated via fluorescence microscopy (Leica Fluorescence Microscope with HD Camera & Software LAS X) on one-time bleached Caucasian hair swatches. The moringa hydrolyzed protein was used at
1% in a protein-free shampoo and was compared to the initial untreated and placebo protein-free shampoo treated hair swatches. The hair was immersed in a cationic Rhodamine B fluorescent dye, which is highly substantive to damaged sites of hair fibres. It reacts with the active sites of sulphonic acid, formed when disulphide bonds are broken due to damaging processes, in this case, oxidative bleaching.
This study delves into the transformative potential of hydrolyzed moringa protein- based technologies in hair care. Through a rigorous examination of various claims, including cortex penetration, cystine repair, bond reinforcement, and enhanced heat protection, this research illuminates the profound impact of protein on hair health. The findings reveal a multi-faceted approach to hair care, showcasing protein’s ability to not only mend and strengthen bonds, but also fortify them for increased resilience. This comprehensive analysis provides a valuable foundation for advancing the development of cutting-edge products tailored to nourish and protect hair at its core. In this research paper focusing on bond builders the three key areas are examined: active penetration, improvement or restoration of internal hair structures and improvement in mechanical properties. Active penetration was investigated using fluorescence microscopy and FTIR. Effects of protein structures were investigated using differential scanning calorimetry. Improvement of mechanical properties was investigated using single fibre tensile studies. Visual analysis of hair fibre surface was viewed through scanning electron microscopy.
With greater damage to the hair, fluorescent
dye has more affinity and penetrates the hair, thus higher fluorescence is observed. However, when an active ingredient, such as hydrolyzed moringa protein, has high affinity to hair, it will attach itself to the damaged sites. The Rhodamine B dye will have fewer binding sites for the hair and causes a decrease in fluorescent intensity. After one and five applications of placebo and moringa treatments, the hair fibres were air dried in a standardized environment at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2°C for 24 hours. All groups were then cross-sectionally cut, dyed, and evaluated under fluorescence microscopy.
Results
The substantivity and penetration of the moringa hydrolyzed protein technology on bleached Caucasian hair swatches versus placebo treatments compared to initial are illustrated in Figure 1 below. Fluorescent intensity was decreased from the untreated
www.personalcaremagazine.com ABSTRACT
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