ANTI-AGEING
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Making sense of senses for anti-ageing cosmetics
Céline Laperdrix, Gabrielle Moro, Pierre-Yves Morvan, Romuald Vallee – Codif Technologie Naturelle
By law, a cosmetic product is described as a substance or mixture applied on skin with a view, exclusively or mainly, to clean, to perfume, to modify appearance, to protect. It is very well understood that active ingredients give efficacy while other formulation compounds are responsible for sensations in application. In recent times, consumer expect both
pleasure in application of formulas and high efficacy in treatment of skin disorders. More and more, cosmetic developments are not exclusively guided by notions of rational effectiveness but also by notions of sensoriality.
The sensorial properties of a cosmetic
product are studied using internationally recognized discriminating or descriptive methods.1,2
Yet focusing on high value cosmetic
products, some manufacturers have forgotten that the skin is both a living organ and also a powerful communication tool using all senses. Skin is a sensory organ and skin concerns all senses: sight, sound, smell, taste and touch. Skin has to be considered as a detector for all senses and perceptions. Therefore, all senses have to be considered in cosmetic development. To illustrate this purpose, this article will describe the results of Codif’s research concerning an active ingredient obtained from upcycled pomace of apple (Marie Menard variety): Regetaste. This is the first demonstration example of efficiency upgraded by consideration of all human senses.
Activating the bitter taste receptors of the skin, it induces many processes linked to keratinocyte differentiation, even until desquamation achievement, and it reduces epidermal senescence. In vivo, protection, radiance and smoothness are measured; seen, heard and touched.
Activation of skin taste receptors for skin regeneration The best way to activate TAS2R receptors has been elucidated using artificial intelligence tools. Molecular docking reveals the high potential of one polyphenol to activate bitterness receptors. Knowing that bitter apples traditionally
Placebo ■ 1% Regetaste ■ 2% Regetaste ■ ***
12 5.3
6.3 *
7.1 *
7.5 *
ABSTRACT
While the demand of consumers for proof behind claims is higher than ever, cutting edge methods are emerging with smart instrumental approach; opening the way to new skincare claims considering holistically all senses. Thanks to tribology, we are now able to study the benefits of anti-ageing strategy on the texture of the skin through its vibrations and the ‘song’ it emits. This new approach reminds us how the skin is both a living organ and also a sensorial communication powerful tool.
used in Brittany for cider production are rich in polyphenols, we have orientated our development on the pomace of Marie Menard apple, which presents the best balance of polyphenols and acidity. With an upcycling approach, the pomace
of Marie Menard apple is dried and used for water-soluble extraction. The final extract, characterized by a richness in polyphenols and also the presence of malic acid is finally increasing the synthesis of TAS2R4 and TAS2R5 receptors in keratinocytes by 42% and 11% respectively. More interestingly, it significantly increases
1 D4
www.personalcaremagazine.com D7 Figure 1: In vivo evaluation of the integrity of the barrier function (*p<0.05; ***p<0.001 Student test)
the activation of these receptors (GPCR protein). It induces intracellular calcium release in a dose-dependant manner up to +532% (p<0.001 Student test). As described in literature, this huge
activation of bitterness receptors is directly January 2024 PERSONAL CARE
% variation versus D0
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