56 ANTI-AGEING
Fermented bioactive for versatile anti-ageing
Xiaotong Yuan, Wenjie Qu, Songyan Zou, Jian Wei, Zhen Lu, Dexue Luo – Bloomage Biotechnology
Skin ageing is a natural process in which the body’s functions gradually develop either quickly or slowly, influenced by both internal and external factors.1
It is primarily caused by intrinsic
ageing and extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing is an unavoidable and
complex natural process characterized by a gradual slowdown in cellular metabolism, loss of collagen, damage to collagen fibres, hormonal imbalances, reduction in fat content, and natural cell death.
Extrinsic ageing, on the other hand, is
mainly influenced by external factors such as environmental pollution and excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It leads to thinning of the skin, and breakage of elastic fibres, resulting in skin ageing issues such as dryness, roughness, wrinkles and sagging.2 There are two main categories of skin care
products for anti-ageing purposes: repairing and protecting. Repairing products typically target the epidermis and dermis layers of the skin, such as collagen, as the most visible signs of ageing include collagen loss and fine lines. By enhancing the synthesis of collagen, the effects of ageing can be partially reversed, repairing damaged collagen fibres and making the skin appear younger. In addition, as age increases, the skin barrier
function can be compromised, leading to sensitivity and dryness. Therefore, moisturizing and repairing the skin barrier are also common anti-ageing approaches.
Filaggrin, FLG BC Therefore, effective anti-ageing requires a
multi-target, multi-pathway approach to achieve comprehensive effects on the stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis layers, and cellular sources of the skin.
AcHA: barrier strengthening & autophagy The skin barrier in a broad sense includes the biological barrier, chemical barrier, physical barrier and immune barrier.4
In a narrow sense,
the skin barrier mainly refers to the physical barrier. The skin barrier is the natural defender of the human skin, which can be described as a ‘protective film’. The skin barrier is composed of sebum
membrane, keratin, lipids, and dermal glycosaminoglycans. In a healthy stratum corneum, the keratinocytes and intercellular lipids are arranged in a stable brick-and-mortar structure, with keratinocytes as the bricks and intercellular lipids as the mortar. The integrity of the ‘bricks and mortar’ ensures the integrity of the skin barrier.5
When the skin barrier is damaged, the Furthermore, protective products mainly
target the inner skin by promoting endogenous antioxidant activity to eliminate excess free radicals in the body. They also aim to combat photoageing by blocking UV rays or enhancing the skin’s resistance to UV damage, keeping the skin protected from the harmful effects of the external environment.3
Loricrin, LOR
Transglutaminase, TGM1
Involucrin, IVL
arrangement of keratinocytes becomes disordered and loose, leading to the easy loss of physiological sebum and moisture. The water content in the epidermis decreases, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases. As a result, the skin becomes unable to withstand external irritants, and may even develop skin disorders. Sodium acetylated hyaluronate (AcHA) is
obtained through the acetylation reaction of the natural moisturizing factor, sodium hyaluronate (HA). The introduction of acetyl groups to HA enhances its affinity and adhesion to the skin, improving its moisturizing properties. AcHA has been found to possess effective
AcHA 0.05%
moisturization, skin barrier repair, and skin elasticity enhancement. It has a non-greasy and refreshing texture. When applied to the skin, AcHA forms a semi-embedded structure on the skin surface, reducing water evaporation and increasing internal water retention. It can also penetrate the epidermis to hydrate and soften the stratum corneum, providing dual moisturizing effects and improving dry and rough skin, making it soft and elastic. Furthermore, AcHA can promote epidermal
AcHA 0.1% Figure 1: Changes of the cornified envelope-related proteins after AcHA treatment PERSONAL CARE January 2024
cell proliferation and repair damaged epidermal cells, thereby enhancing the barrier function of the stratum corneum and improving the skin’s natural defense ability. AcHA can also promote the expression of proteins related to the
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