LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
that enhance the properties of cosmetic and personal care products with functionality, as listed below. ■ Oil, sweat and odour absorption ■ Enhanced UV protection ■ Reduced greasiness and stickiness ■ Mattifying effect to minimize pores ■ Moisturizing ■ Soft focus, blurring In a sensory comparison study conducted
by ACT Solutions, fine silica microspheres displayed greater performance over talc in several important categories including texture and spreadability.
Different grades for specific formulations To meet the needs of specific formulations, fine silica microspheres are available in various grades and particle sizes. Selection is important as each property offers a different trait. For example, a particle with higher porosity offers better light-scattering properties for a soft focus. Table 1 illustrates grades and sizes from 3 – 20
µm, pore diameters up to 13 nm, and moisture and oil absorption capacity from 40 – 150 mL/100 g. H series is a synthetic spherical silica having
low cohesiveness and high fluidity with two types of oil absorption, one having over twice the absorption capacity as the first. The type with high oil absorption is very bulky and disperses easily. H-121 offers the most functionality for O/W (oil-in-water) emulsions by reducing
27
TABLE 1: FINE SILICA MICROSPHERES DISPLAY A RANGE OF CHARACTERISTICS TO MEET SPECIFIC FORMULATION NEEDS
Sensory Comparison Grade
H-Series Normal Type
L-Series NP-Series
H-31 H-51 H-121 H-201 H-52 H-122 H-33 H-53 L-31 H-51
NP-30 NP-100 NP-200
Mean Particle Size (µm)
3 5
12
20 5
12 3 5 3 5 4
10 20
Specific Surface Area (m2
/g)
800 800 800 800 700 700 700 700 300 300 40 50
100
greasiness, sliminess and stickiness while providing a mattifying and blurring effect. For W/O (water-in-oil) emulsions, H-33 provides the best performance in reducing sliminess and greasiness while increasing absorption and SPF (sun protection factor). Other grades also serve this emulsion,
Pore Volume (mL/g)
1 1 1 1
2 2 2 2 1 1
0.05 0.1 0.1
Pore Diameter (nm)
5 5 5 5
10 10 11 11
13 13 - - -
Oil Absorption (mL100g)
150 150 150 150
300 300 400 400 150 150 30 35 40
depending on the desired properties. For instance, H-51 provides a mattifying and blurring effect while minimizing pores. Anhydrous formulations not defined by W/O
or O/W are best served by grades H-33, H-121, H-51 and H-52, which offer different properties for formulations. H-33 leaves the skin feeling
TABLE 2: TEST FORMULATIONS DEMONSTRATE THE REPLACEMENT OF TALC WITH FINE SILICA MICROSPHERES ALONE AND COMBINED WITH STARCH. Liquid Highlighter ACTS 23753
Phase A B INCI Name Water
Ammonium Styrene/MA Copolymer Ethanol Amide Polysorbate 80
Bismuth Oxchloride (CI 77163), Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Isododecane, Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Isododecane, Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
C
Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI77491) Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI77491) Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Tin Oxide Mica, Laurosyl Lysine
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxide (CI 77491), Tin Oxide
D Propanediol Acrylates Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
E
Cetearyl Alcohol, ceteth-20 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phospate Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyveryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate, Cetearyl Alcohol Talc
F Silica Cornstarch
www.personalcaremagazine.com With Talc Wt (%)
62 2 2
1.25 0.5
1 1
1
0.75 0.5
0.5 5
0.5 10 5 3 1 1
2
0 0
With Fine Silica
Microspheres Wt (%) 62 2 2
1.25 0.5
1 1
1
0.75 0.5
0.5 5
0.5 10 5 3 1 1
0 2
0 With Fine Silica
Microsphere + Cornstarch Wt (%) 62 2 2
1.25 0.5
1 1
1
0.75 0.5
0.5 5
0.5 10 5 3 1 1
0 1 1
January 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80
