28 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
smooth, while H-121 also provides a mattifying effect, and H-51 reduces greasiness. If SPF boost in sunscreen and other cosmetics
is desired, H-33 and H-53 silica work in both O/W and W/O emulsions across different formulations. L series is a synthetic spherical silica having
low cohesiveness and high fluidity and a lower specific surface area than the H series. This product is suitable for chemical surface modification or coating. Despite the difference in surface area, the product provides the same oil absorption capacity as the H series. The L series offers better slipperiness and
spreadability over the H series. Because of the product porosity, it has a light-scattering effect for cosmetics and is used as a matting agent for coatings. The particle size distribution is narrow, so it is able to give a single asperity to a thin coating layer.
The NP series is a non-porous, heat-treated
silica particle. This series has very high hardness, so it is often used as a filler for increasing resin hardness. The high refractiveness of the NP series offers good transparency when added to resins and films. It also is used for anti-blocking in film
applications. The NP series has high heat resistance and is very dimensionally stable at various temperature ranges.
Formulations without talc Cosmetic companies can add fine silica to any phase of a product formulation as the microspheres provide the same effects when combined during the aqueous or oil phase or at the very end of the process. Just adding 1% of the silica can increase
benefits while ensuring the sustainability of company operations. Multiple grades can be added to a formulation to achieve different desired goals, but it is recommended not to exceed 4% total. ACT Solutions developed test formulations that demonstrate the effects of replacing talc with fine silica microspheres. Table 2 shows how fine silica microspheres alone and with starch are formulated as an alternative to talc in liquid highlighter to enhance blending without drying the skin.
Range of cosmetic and skincare applications In addition to replacing talc in personal care product formulations, fine silica microspheres offer an excellent alternative to microplastic ingredients like Nylon 12 and PMMA (porous/ nonporous) in skincare and cosmetics. They also boost SPF of formulations
because they form a thick and uniform film on the skin due to their large particle size, which enhances the dispersion of the mineral actives throughout the film. In addition, silica gels are porous, so they excel at scattering light. As UV light passes through the film of
product on the skin, the porosity of the silica gels increases the pathlength and causes it to scatter in all directions. These two factors prevent UV light from reaching the skin and promote more UV light reflection from the skin, raising the SPF of the inorganic sunscreen.
PERSONAL CARE January 2024
TABLE 3: FINE SILICA MICROSPHERES BOOST PERFORMANCE OBJECTIVES IN MANY TYPES OF COSMETICS AND SKIN CARE FORMULATIONS
Application Target Aim Effect Texture improvement
Skincare/ Foundation
Sweat & sebum absorption
Coverage of wrinkles Defined features
Lipstick Mascara Sunscreen Body Wash Deodorant Cream Cleanser Body Scrub
Sweat & sebum absorption Rheology control Volume up
SPF boost & sweat absorption Texture improvement Sweat absorption Texture improvement Texture improvement In addition, high-absorption fine silica
spheres can be used as microencapsulation shells to trap oils and other active ingredients in the silica’s microporous structure to form dry, waterless powders to provide cosmetic products with long-lasting fragrance. Fine silica microspheres have wide-ranging use in the production of different skincare and cosmetic products, including the below. Table 3 outlines properties that fine silica microspheres enhance in different product formulations. ■ Tinted moisturizer ■ Serum ■ Makeup foundation ■ Liquid blush ■ Lipstick ■ Mascara ■ Facial cleanser ■ Sunscreen ■ Body wash ■ Deodorant ■ Dry shampoo
Conclusion Fine silica microspheres are a safe, natural and environmentally friendly alternative to talc in cosmetics and skincare formulations. While talc is inexpensive and can improve the texture and feel of cosmetics, it has been linked to potential carcinogenic exposure, which has increased consumer concerns and driven costly lawsuits. Although talc has not been banned in the
US, testing regulations have been introduced, leading many beauty brands, including Revlon,
Slipperiness Smoothness Transparency
Matte effect (foundation)
Long-lasting effect Anti-oily feeling Soft focus
Stereoscopic effect Long-lasting effect Solidifying Bulking
SPF boost
Long lasting effect Smoothness
Long lasting effect
Long lasting effect Solidifying
Slipperiness Smoothness Exfoliation
Chanel and L’Oréal, to move away from talc- based formulations. In addition, fine silica microspheres
provide benefits such as oil, sweat and odour absorption; enhanced UV protection; reduced greasiness and stickiness; and a soft-focus, blurring effect. For these reasons, silica microspheres are an ideal ingredient for a wide range of products, from makeup foundation and lipstick to sunscreen and dry shampoo.
PC
References 1. Slomovitz B, de Haydu C, Taub M et al. Asbestos and ovarian cancer: examining the historical evidence. International Journal of Gynecologic Cancer. 2021; 31:122-128. https://
ijgc.bmj.com/content/31/1/122
2. Forbes Advisor. Talcum Powder Lawsuit Update September 2023. https://www.
forbes.com/advisor/legal/product-liability/ talcum-powder-update/
3. Ibid. 4. Ibid. 5. King & Spalding LLP. Nearly a Century in the Making: Congress Modernizes FDA’s Regulation of Cosmetics. 9 January 2023.
https://www.kslaw.com/news-and-insights/ nearly-a-century-in-the-making-congress- modernizes-fdas-regulation-of-cosmetics
6. Papidos R. More and More Beauty Brands Are Moving Away From Using Talc in Products. Will + Good. June 2020. https://
www.wellandgood.com/talc-in-beauty- products/
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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