48 ADAPTOGENS
ATP production in fibroblasts treated with the active surpasses that of untreated cells when exposed to AVL. The extract also safeguards the mobility and
communication properties of fibroblasts from the adverse effects of screen light exposure. Cellular activity as well as the production of key matrix components are maintained. In light stress conditions, cells treated with the active keep excellent spreading, confirming its full protective effect against AVL (Figure 3). It also restores the expression of COL1A2
gene (56% of correction) and completely protects the expression of COL1A1 gene (100% protection) in fibroblasts exposed to screen emitted light. Finally, this ingredient has been
scientifically proven to stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins, a process that typically diminishes with ageing. Elastin and Fibrillin-1 synthesis increased by a +84% and +87%, respectively, in a monolayer culture of fibroblasts treated with the active (Figure 4).
Boosted tonicity and vitality demonstrated in vivo In a clinical trial, 32 Caucasian volunteers presenting a lack of tonicity and firmness on face as well as a degraded skin texture on face and arms, applied a cream infused with 2% of the active ingredient twice daily for a period of two months. A placebo was administered on the other side. A comprehensive range of methodologies
was employed to assess the active’s capacity to restore cutaneous biomechanical properties and alleviate skin fatigue. Cutometry measurements conducted on the
face revealed a significant enhancement in the skin’s biomechanical properties, specifically its elastic properties (+10.0%) and tonicity (+18.5%). The outcome was visibly taut skin and a reduction in skin fatigue (-10.6%). Clinical scoring results confirm these effects
on both the face and arms. A dermatologist investigator evaluated various criteria, encompassing skin firmness, tonicity, fatigue, skin texture, and radiance. Skin tonicity exhibited significant
improvement with the active treatment in comparison to the placebo treatment, registering a gain of +48.7% on the face and +21.6% on the arms (Figure 5). The skin, as a result, appeared more plump (+42.0%) and significantly smoother (+44.2%). Notably, signs of fatigue became less visible (-19.2%), and the skin’s vitality was restored (+41.2%). In a subsequent study, the active
underwent testing by volunteers, avid users of new technologies and regular users of facial care products. This expansive study was conducted in Thailand and France, encompassing 107 and 105 panelists, respectively, with a specific focus on assessing two key aspects
PERSONAL CARE January 2024 Before B Vol.8 After A Vol.3
Before
Figure 5: Before/after pictures - 2% EnergiNius in emulsion Firstly, their interest in a product dedicated
to shielding skin cells from digital stress. Secondly, the perceived efficacy of a cream containing the active at 1%. To evaluate these aspects, self-assessment questionnaires were administered. The response was positive on both fronts, as
Thai and French consumers found the concept to be not only enticing but also distinctive, earning global concept scores of 8.2 and 8.0 out of ten, respectively. The formula infused with the active
ingredient was intrinsically associated with claims that highlighted an enhancement of overall skin energy and protection. These included affirmations like “The cream restores energy to the skin”; “The skin regains its vitality”; “The skin is revitalized”; and “The skin is more resistant”.
Claims and applications The restoration of the energetic potential of the skin is key in the fight against
After
chronological and digital ageing. In this journey, an ashwagandha extract emerges as a potent ally, renowned for its energy-enhancing attributes. This ingredient boasts a unique set of
properties, offering a revitalizing infusion for skin cells while forming a resilient shield against the aggression of digital stress. The end result is a remarkable rejuvenation of the skin, radiating new vitality. It is ideally suited for energy-boosting solution
to skin care ranges, offering a powerful counter the impacts of both chronological and digital ageing. It serves as a remarkable addition to night treatments, effectively revitalizing the skin while one sleeps. Furthermore, it finds a natural fit in daily protective creams, with a specific focus on safeguarding the skin against digital pollution.
References 1. Singh N, Bhalla M, de Jager P, Gilca M. An Overview on Ashwagandha: A Rasayana (Rejuvenator) of Ayurveda. Afr. J .Tradit. Complement. Altern. Med. 2011; 8(5 Suppl): 208–213
2. Harmful effects of screen-emitted visible light on the dermis; an additional environmental stress not to be neglected. Rascalou A1 Lennon P1
, Lamartine J2 , Demarne F1
Conference, 2017. 1 5305/LTBI, 3
CYTOO
www.personalcaremagazine.com , Poydenot P3 , Bechetoille N1 Gattefossé, 2 , . IFSCC CNRS UMR
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