66 HAIR CARE
Figure 1: Interactions and bonds between amino acids in proteins (Miranda-Vilela et al, 2014)
aggressions will lead to cuticle removal, cortex exposure and split ends. As a consequence of these scale irregularities, the hair will not only appear more dull and less shiny, but also less manageable, more complicated to comb, have a dry sensation, less smoothness and more frizz. Additionally, when bonds between amino
acids are broken, it creates charges within the fibre and specific damaged sites will be charged all along the fibre. This directly impacts the hydrophobic properties of the hair. The more damage, the more charged, polar and hydrophilic the hair will become, and therefore the more porous and susceptible to water. This will have an impact on the diffusion properties while reinforcing the fact that scales will lift. In the cortex, the disorganization of the
structure directly impacts the mechanical properties. The hair fibre loose strength and resistance and will be more prone to break.1,6,7
The
hair is more hydrophilic, absorbing water easier, so will be more prone to deformation during day to day grooming, especially in wet hair.
Consumer & hair damage Thanks to this deep understanding of hair damage and how keratin is impacted, Symrise developed specific ingredients to target the different levels of hair damage, and offer dedicated solution to consumers. Hair damage has been a growing global
concern among consumers in the past years. As a way of self-expression, hair should be a reflection of personality and is fully part of an individual’s identity. Consumers do not hesitate to color, bleach or style their hair on a regular basis like they would 'accessorize' their clothes. As consumers are becoming more and more aware of how physical and chemical treatments
PERSONAL CARE January 2024
Figure 2: Keratin organization and cortex structure (Franbourg, 2003)
will impact their hair, they are turning to the beauty industry to provide them with efficient solutions to prevent and protect hair while repairing past damage. When asked about their hair type, many consumers will define their hair as damaged.5
Different stressors can cause hair
damage, from low level damage like day-to-day combing and grooming, to stronger damage caused by repeated application of heat or chemical treatments.
Hair repair thanks to proteins & peptides As an expert for many years on the extraction of native proteins with its unique ingredient SymHair® Restore, Symrise went deeper into the understanding of natural proteins and developed a specific tailor-made process to obtain natural peptides. While this active ingredient will work at the cuticle level to improve hair smoothness, shine and split ends, we are now offering new complementary solutions to repair the hair from the inside. Utilizing a new strategy to address hair
damage, we are targeting those charged sites within the cortex, creating new interactions and stabilizing the broken bonds in the proteins. This will help to partially restore the structural integrity of the fibre, for improved strength and resistance. To be able to interact with the damaged area, very small sized molecules are needed. Additionally, to be able to interact, link, and stay within the cortex, the compounds need to present specific polar properties.1,8 Peptides are already well-known solutions
in the cosmetic field for their skin benefits. They have been more and more recognized as effective solutions for hair in recent times. Thanks to their small molecular weight, they
have a higher chance to diffuse throughout the cuticles and intercellular cement and reach the cortical zone.8 Consumers already associate peptides as an
effective solution against hair damage. Symrise now demonstrates how peptides can be gained from natural sources to deliver specific action and benefits for all levels of hair damage. SymProt’in® Oat and SymProt’in Lupin
deeply penetrate the hair fibre, reach the cortex and target the damaged and charged sites to build new interactions (Figure 3). They will restore the structural integrity for strength and resistance improvement.
Natural & biomimetic peptides for deep penetration The oat and lupin peptides are obtained via biotechnology and enzymatic extraction. Green and eco-friendly processes allow the use of different sources to create natural and sustainable biomimetic peptides. Oat and lupin were identified and chosen for their rich and unique protein content. Thanks to a tailor-made cocktail of enzymes,
very specific and unique peptides are obtained. The two active ingredients are designed to ensure that each one has a unique profile in peptides and amino acid composition, for targeted action on the fibre. They are mainly composed of di- and
tripeptides, with very low molecular weight. This will ensure the penetration of the ingredient in the hair fibre. Additionally, to ensure a good diffusion into the cortex and deposition of the ingredients, even after rinsing, the peptides need to have a good affinity with the hair, especially the damaged areas to effectively repair the fibre.
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