46 ADAPTOGENS The key findings of this research unveiled
three primary pillars of concern for women in their skincare practices: ‘energy’, ‘perfection’ and ‘protection’. Consumers are actively seeking revitalizing, regenerating, and energizing cosmetic solutions, which aid the skin in regaining its vitality and radiance while combatting both internal and external aggressors.
Age and digital stress: proven factors that reduce cellular energy Chronological ageing is linked to a gradual loss of cellular dynamism. In the dermal layer, fibroblasts progressively wane in vitality. This decline manifests as a less efficient synthesis of pivotal matrix proteins, such as collagen and elastin. Consequently, the skin progressively loses its
biomechanical properties, including tonicity and elasticity, culminating in visible signs such as sagging and a weathered, wrinkled appearance. Additionally, external aggressors, notably
digital stress, present a threat to the skin’s energetic potential. Artificial visible light (AVL) is everywhere in our modern life. A 2023 report on digital consumption trends shares that we spend an average of six hours and 37 minutes per day on the internet. Our daily routines, seamlessly intertwined with the use of electronic devices, such as cell phones, computers, and tablets, lead to ever-escalating levels of exposure to LED sources that emit visible light wavelengths. While the effects of prolonged screen exposure on sleep quality and ocular health are widely
CONTROL (NOT EXPOSED TO AVL)
35,000) across the entire genome display dysregulated expression after exposure to visible light. Molecular pathways pertaining to mitochondria and cytoskeleton are particularly altered. At the cellular level, screen-emitted light
damages the energy-producing machinery of our cells. The mitochondrial network, responsible for generating cellular fuel in the form of ATP, becomes compromised. Post-exposure, the network undergoes fragmentation, culminating in a significant decrease in ATP production. Furthermore, screen-emitted light disrupts
©Gattefossé
Figure 1: In vitro tests device replicating the light emitted by screens
recognized, its impact on the skin remains far less understood. Gattefossé has developed a unique
apparatus capable of accurately replicating the light emitted by screens (Figure 1). The device allows for a meticulous examination of its effects on skin cells. These studies have demonstrated that
screen-emitted light acts as an additional environmental stressor, inflicting amplified cellular fatigue, and disrupting the morphology and behavior of key skin cells, namely fibroblasts.2 One crucial finding is the profound influence
of AVL on gene expression in fibroblasts. Over 8% of genes (equating to 2,984 genes out of
UNTREATED (EXPOSED TO AVL) ENERGINIUS 0.1% (EXPOSED TO AVL)
the mobility, communication, and proliferative capacities of fibroblasts. Under stress, the cytoskeleton fibres become disorganized, resulting in reduced cell spreading and a loss of cell contractibility. In this fatigued and isolated state, fibroblasts
become less capable of producing vital matrix components and lose their functional efficiency in interacting with their environment. This impedes the essential matrix remodeling process, ultimately diminishing the skin’s vitality.
A bio-based ashwagandha extract with unique composition Given ashwagandha’s well-established reputation for its energy-boosting attributes, it has emerged as a promising ally in the quest to restore the skin’s vitality, often compromised by ageing and digital stress. In the pursuit of the ideal source of
ashwagandha roots, Gattefossé run an exhaustive comparative genetic study. This analysis revealed that roots originating from the USA, specifically from Oregon, outshone the more traditional Indian and Chinese varieties. The American roots not only exhibited richer
phytochemical imprints but also possessed a distinct genetic profile. These roots were meticulously cultivated in an organic farm dedicated to Indian ginseng. Once harvested and dried, the roots undergo trimming and grading before they are processed by Gattefossé’s vegetal extraction laboratory. The active component is extracted using
Network total length: +35%*** Mitochondrial subunits number: -20%***
Figure 2: Protection of the mitochondrial network under light exposure - *** p < 0,001 CONTROL (NOT EXPOSED TO AVL) UNTREATED (EXPOSED TO AVL) ENERGINIUS 0.1% (EXPOSED TO AVL)
NaDES (natural deep eutectic solvents) technology, a process directly inspired by nature’s way of solubilizing metabolites within plant cells. Through eutectic combinations of sugars and nitrogen compounds, these green solvents emulate the natural processes that occur in plants. NaDES technology enables the creation
of active compositions that are unattainable using conventional solvents. Not only are these solvents natural and non-toxic, but they also operate efficiently at lower temperatures, perfectly aligning with Gattefossé’s commitment to delivering high-performance sustainable ingredients. The fruits of these efforts are underscored by the ERI360° label awarded to this specific ingredient. To extract metabolites from Indian ginseng
Cell spreading: +38%*** Figure 3: Maintenance of cell spreading under light exposure - *** p < 0,001 PERSONAL CARE January 2024
roots, a NaDES solvent composed of fructose, glycerin, and water is employed. This bio- inspired and organic extract boasts a distinct phytochemical composition, resulting in enhanced efficacy.
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