ANTI-AGEING LC 3B 2.0 1.5 1.0 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0.25 0.5 AcHA content (%) Figure 2: Changes of autophagy marker proteins after AcHA treatment
cornified envelope (Figure 1), thus facilitating the formation of the cornified envelope. Bloomage’s immunohistochemistry (IHC)
studies have shown that AcHA can increase the expression of proteins and enzymes associated with the cornified envelope, such as filaggrin, loricrin, involucrin and transglutaminase, which contribute to the repair of the skin barrier function. Autophagy is a process in which dysfunctional
cellular components are degraded within cells by lysosomes. Autophagy can degrade and digest damaged or denatured organelles, proteins, and nucleic acids, providing materials for cell regeneration and repair, and maintaining orderly cellular activities. Autophagy plays various roles, including
clearing damaged or ageing cellular components, processing intracellular toxic substances, and adapting to stress.6
The discovery of the
mechanism of autophagy also let Japanese scientist Yoshinori Ohsumi win the 2016 Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine. So, autophagy is of great significance in skin
anti-ageing. As age increases, the self-repair and regeneration capacity of the skin gradually declines, and the function of cellular autophagy is also affected.
Autophagy promotes the generation and
regeneration of new cells by degrading and recycling cellular waste and ageing substances, which helps maintain the stability and health of skin tissues. Autophagy also clears intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), reducing oxidative stress. Experimental results show that when HaCaT
cells are treated with 1% AcHA, the expression of microtubule-associated protein LC3B and ubiquitin-binding protein p62 significantly increase (Figure 2). This indicates the activation of autophagy, suggesting that AcHA can resist cell damage and organismal ageing.7
EGT: mitochondrial targeting & antioxidant Mitochondria play a crucial role as energy factories in the body, ensuring the vitality and regeneration of cells. Therefore, there is a close relationship between skin ageing and mitochondria. Mitochondria can enhance the body’s antioxidant capacity and inhibit oxidative stress caused by ROS, thus maintaining normal cell differentiation and growth, further protecting cells, and preventing ageing. Ageing is closely associated with
mitochondrial DNA damage. Dr. Keshav Singh and his team have discovered that repairing mitochondrial DNA can reverse skin wrinkling and hair loss, making significant breakthroughs in anti-ageing research.8 Ergothioneine (EGT) is a naturally occurring
2-thio-imidazole and the only known natural substance of its kind. It was first discovered by French chemist Charles Tanret in 1909 from the fungus pleurotus cornucopia, and it was named accordingly. It is worth noting that the human body cannot synthesize EGT on its own, so it needs to be obtained through diet. In terms of its mechanism of action, EGT is
a well-established antioxidant that can repair mitochondria.9
In human keratinocytes and
fibroblasts, there is a significant presence of the specific transmembrane protein OCTN-1, which is responsible for transporting EGT. Then, EGT can enter the mitochondria of
cells through OCTN-1, effectively removing ROS and exerting its antioxidant effects, thus protecting mitochondrial DNA and safeguarding mitochondria from UVA-induced damage.10 Researchers have found that EGT has a much higher capacity for scavenging free radicals compared to common antioxidants such as reduced glutathione, uric acid and Trolox - even at the same concentration.11 More importantly, EGT has been proven to
be safe and non-toxic, and it is considered to have excellent antioxidant, anti-ageing, skin brightening, and sleep improvement effects. Therefore, it is widely used in cosmetics, health products, and many other fields. EGT Pure has a purity exceeding 99%. The
infrared spectrum, nuclear magnetic resonance spectrum, pyrolysis GC-MS, and fluorescence spectra of the samples show that, except for EGT, no obvious functional group information and organic matter are found in other substances, which can be identified as pure EGT. EGT Pure crystalline form is rod-shaped
Figure 3: Crystallographic electron microscopy of EGT Pure
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and crisscross, with a large number of hydrogen bonds on the molecular crystal surface, which are tightly packed, making it difficult for water molecules to form hydrogen bonds on the surface, which is not easy to absorb moisture and has good stability (Figure 3). Compared to the traditional low-yield
January 2024 PERSONAL CARE 1 1.1 1.1 1.7
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