ANTI-AGEING
37
Figure 2: Plant-based glycogen: Structure and skin benefits The largest stores of glycogen are usually
found in the muscles and liver, which are very metabolically active and require large amounts of energy. However, a small quantity of glycogen is also present in the skin, where it is an important skin energy source.3 Importantly, glycogen content in the skin also declines with ageing, which suggests that glycogen loss may also play a role in skin ageing. By providing glycogen, the skin cells are given more energy not only to produce essential molecules,4
but also to remove damaged
molecules.5 Delivering energy to improve the skin
damage response, such as the degradation of damaged molecules by the proteasome, can consequently help prevent skin hyperpigmentation.6
As such, glycogen may
have many benefits for the (ageing) skin and is, therefore, a popular ingredient for cosmetic formulations. There is, however, one problem: Glycogen
A
200 150 100 50 0
■ Control ■ 1% Phytoglycogen
is the glucose storage unit found in mammalian cells and it is usually isolated from animal sources. To circumvent this, an alternative vegan solution has been developed: PhytoSpherixTM plant-based phytoglycogen.
, a
A natural and safe plant-based glycogen to energize the skin The plant-based glycogen is naturally produced by a special variety of non-GMO sweetcorn and extracted via a mild water-based process. Various physical characterization techniques have investigated and confirmed the structure to be chemically identical to that of mammalian glycogen,7,8
but it is produced and stored in
plants. It is a compact, spherical, and water-
misceble molecule, whose highly branched dendrimer structure further yields some interesting properties, including high water- binding, low viscosity, and high stability in water. The efficient water-binding capacity,
B *p<0.01 versus control * *
200 150 100 50 0
2 hours 24 hours Figure 3: Stimulating effects on cellular ATP, HA and collagen I production
www.personalcaremagazine.com January 2024 PERSONAL CARE
for example, may enhance the moisturizing properties of skincare formulations.9 In vitro and clinical studies have
demonstrated that the phytoglycogen has rapid and long-lasting hydrating effects, further reduces skin hyperpigmentation and elicits anti- ageing effects. In summary, the multipurpose active is ideal for cosmetic formulations, as a natural and safe, plant-based alternative to animal-derived glycogen.
Methods Cell culture and treatment For the ATP quantification, normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) were seeded to 96-well plates and cultured in keratinocyte culture media (serum-free, supplemented with growth factors) for 24 hours, at 37°C and 5% CO2 The medium was then replaced with assay
medium (serum-free, no growth factors, 1g/L glucose) containing or not (control) 1% phytoglycogen for two hours and 24 hours.
■ Control ■ Phytoglycogen * * *p<0.01 versus control
.
Hyaluronic acid (0.025% Phytoglycogen)
Collagen I (0.05% Phytoglycogen)
production compared to control in %
Increase in intercellular ATP
Increase in production of molecules compared to control in %
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80
