HAIR CARE
Natural biomimetic peptides for hair repair
Justine Thuleau, Carolina Lourenço – Symrise
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The composition of hair is about 95% protein. Protein can be found at all levels within the hair fibre: in the cuticles, the CMC (intercellular cement), the cortex, as well as in the medulla. That is why it is key to understand the role and properties of proteins in hair. Sensoriality, appearance and also strength and resistance of the fibre will depend on the hair protein quality.1 Proteins are long chains of amino acids
units, bidden one after another. More precisely, proteins in hair are mainly keratin proteins. Different types of keratin can be found in the hair fibre. They differ by their composition in amino acids (nature and succession), their size and length (number of amino acid units), but also the three-dimensional structure they adopt when they fold onto themselves. In the cuticle, the main amino acids found
in the keratin are cystine, serine, glycine and proline to only cite four, while in the cortex they will be found in different ratios.1
This will have
an impact on the type of interactions the keratin can create at intramolecular and intermolecular levels between two keratin molecules. Indeed amino acids composing the keratin
chain are able to interact between them and create bonds. Among the interactions that will occur in between the different amino acids, hydrogen bonds, electrostatic interactions, disulfide bridges and hydrophobic interactions are of major importance. Because of these specific interactions and bonds, the keratin
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chain will adopt a specific three-dimensional structure, creating a network by interacting between each other (Figure 1).1,2 For example, in the cuticle, keratins are
organized in a way that will allow cracks in a perpendicular direction of the hair fibre – this is to protect the hair from further damage and avoid cracks from propagating all along the fibre in a longitudinal way. Besides its barrier role, the cuticle scales are responsible for sensoriality and appearance of the hair. The more regularly aligned and sealed the cuticle scales are, the smoother and shinier the hair will be. In the cortex, different interactions
between amino acids occur and the keratin will adopt what is called an alpha helicoidal structure, which is organized in microfilaments, themselves organized into macrofilaments (Figure 2). This creates a very regular network and strong structure. The cortex specific organization gives the hair fibre its mechanical properties and will ensure the strength and resistance of the hair.1,6
Hair damage, impact on proteins Everyday hair fibres are put under several stressors: washing and grooming, combing, UV and sun, styling, bleaching, straightening. All of these actions are impacting the fibre and creating damage which will have a significant impact on both the hair appearance and resistance. In particular, bleaching and dying
ABSTRACT
Symrise has developed a specific tailor- made process to obtain natural peptides for hair care Composed of native proteins, it will work at the cuticle level to improve hair smoothness, shine and split ends. Utilizing a new strategy to address hair damage, Symrise is now targeting those charged sites within the cortex, creating new interactions and stabilizing the broken bonds in the proteins. SymProt’in® Oat and SymProt’in Lupin are both composed of natural peptides. They will deeply penetrate the hair fibre, reach the cortex and target the damaged and charged sites to build new interactions in order to restore the structural integrity for strength and resistance improvement.
will impact the hair keratin levels and cause oxidation. Oxidation processes within the fibre will
disrupt the bonds and interactions between the amino acids in the keratin proteins. This will lead to the disorganization of the structure, at the cuticle level and deeper at the cortex level. In the cuticle, when protein bonds are
broken and the keratin network is weakened, fragments of the cuticle scales will form and detached. The scales can also lift. Repeated
January 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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