42 HAIR CARE A


30 25 20 15 10 5 0


0.01 0.02 0.05 Plant C-Stem Bamboo % Figure 2: (A) Collagen production assay. (B) Elastase inhibition assay. (C) Anti-glycation assay


This plant is described as the giant bamboo par excellence; in optimal climatic conditions, the growing of this vegetable species is prodigious reaching 30 metres in height, 30cm in diameter, and a daily growth of 1 metre. After cutting, bamboo spontaneously


regrows from its roots up to 60 times per single life and it doesn’t need to be replanted. The rods are used as a construction material for roofs and floors for their strength and flexibility due to the high content of silicon (Si). Thinking that these characteristics could be


exploited in the hair, Innovacos has harnessed the power of Phyllostachys pubescens plant “serum” to develop an ingredient with an essential role in reducing hair loss and increasing hair density.


In vitro studies Elastin and collagen fibres, the main components of the dermis, maintain the right elasticity of the skin, giving support, resistance, and firmness to the tissues. These molecules can deeply moisturize the scalp thus preventing its dehydration and helping regenerate the hair structure. A healthy scalp produces healthy hair. The quantity of type I collagen in human


dermal fibroblast was determined using a commercially available kit (Takara Bio, Japan). This kit is capable of detecting procollagen type I carboxy-terminal peptide (PIP) using polyclonal antibodies, rather than directly measuring collagen. Cells were incubated in the presence or the


absence of the bamboo vacuolar extract for 48 hours, and then the culture supernatants were harvested and measured with a sandwich immunoassay kit, which was utilized in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions (Takara Bio, Japan). The measurement was performed with a


microplate at 450 nm. The bamboo vacuolar extract increases collagen synthesis in a dose- dependent manner (Figure 2A). Elastase is the proteinase enzyme that is


capable of breaking down elastin. Low levels of elastin are linked with a decrease in the mechanical properties of connective tissue. The activity of elastase [PPE (Type IV); Sigma Chem. Co.] was examined using N-Suc-(Ala)3- nitroanilide as the substrate, and the release of –nitroaniline at 410 nm was measured. The reaction was carried out in a 200


PERSONAL CARE January 2024 A


Human Hair Follicular Keratinocyte (HHFK)


120 110 100 90


0 10 100 1000 Plant C-Stem Bamboo ppm Figure 3: (A) HHFK viability assay. (B) HHFDPC viability assay


mM Tris-HCl buffer (pH 8.0) containing 5 mM N-Suc-(Ala)3-nitroanilide and 10 μg/mL elastase. The sample was added to the reaction mixture to reach a final concentration of 1%, and elastase inhibition was assessed at 25°C. The reaction mixture was pre-incubated


for ten minutes before adding the substrate. The change in absorbance was measured at 410 nm using a 96-well reader. The percentage inhibition of elastase was calculated as follows: Inhibition (%)= [(A-B)/A] × 100. The bamboo vacuolar extract showed an inhibitory effect on elastase activity in a dose-dependent manner (Figure 2B). Glycation occurs in all living cells and it


occurs when excess glucose molecules stick to collagen and elastin fibres, forming advanced glycation end-products (AGE), also known as glycotoxins. Young collagen and elastin are cross-linked in a particular way that promotes firmness and flexibility. Once these collagen and elastin fibres in the


skin are glycated, they lose their normal functions. The body cannot break them down and replace them, so they become stiff and brittle. Albumin (1 mg/ml final concentration)


was incubated with glucose (500 mM final concentration) in the presence of the bamboo vacuolar extract (5% final concentration), aminoguanidine (positive control), or PBS as the control buffer at the specified concentration. The reaction was allowed to proceed at 600°C for 48 hours. The reaction mixture was allowed to cool at room temperature, and then 0.2 ml reaction


mixture was transferred to a new tube and the reaction was stopped by adding 10 μl of 100% (w/v) trichloroacetic acid (TCA). The TCA-added mixture was kept at 40°C for ten minutes before centrifugation at 15,000 rpm. The precipitate was redissolved with 0.8


ml alkaline PBS (pH 10), and the relative amount of glycated bovine serum albumin (BSA) was immediately determined on the basis of fluorescence intensity by use of a spectrofluorometer Infinite 200 Pro (Tecan, Austria). The excitation and emission wavelengths


used were 370 and 440 nm, respectively. Results are expressed as percentage inhibition of the formation of the glycated protein. The bamboo vacuolar extract decreases the


formation of the glycated protein in a dose- dependent manner (Figure 2C) ensuring elasticity and flexibility to collagen and elastin fibres. The evaluation of hair essential components


has been carried out to validate the efficacy of the bamboo vacuolar extract in hair care. In particular, the viability of human hair follicular keratinocyte (HHFK) (Figure 3A), and human hair follicle dermal papilla cell (HHFDPC) (Figure 3B) was analyzed by exposing those cells (5X103 cells/well) to growing concentrations of the active ingredient for 72 hours. HHFK and HHFDPC are respectively


responsible for the synthesis of keratin in the hair shaft and the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the hair follicle. The bamboo vacuolar extract increased the cell viability of both groups of cells which will result in


www.personalcaremagazine.com B


Human Hair Follicle Dermal Papilla Cell (HHFDPC)


150 100 50 0


0 10 100 10000 Plant C-Stem Bamboo ppm B


Plant C-Stem Bamboo % 0.2


0.5 0 -5


-10 -15


0 -5


-10 -15


-20 -25


C


Plant C-Stem Bamboo % 1


2


Collagen (%) vs control


Elastase (%) vs control % cell viability


% cell viability


Glycation (%) vs control


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