62 ANTI-AGEING
translated by a significant decrease in senescence marker p16 by 25%,3
and a
reactivation of 18 genes involved in the process of keratinisation,4
epidermal lipids synthesis,
formation of cornified envelope, adhesion proteins and enzymes in charge of skin’s natural exfoliation. This point was confirmed with additional
experiments using explants maintained in survival conditions and monitoring of KLK enzymes activities (data not shown). This is therefore not only a decrease in keratinocytes senescence which is operated by the activation of bitterness receptors, but also a global regeneration of the epidermis architecture. An in vivo study conducted on a panel of
90 volunteers aged between 40- to 65-year- old and presenting a rough skin and dull complexion has shown significant benefits within four days only. A renovation of skin surface is observed
through a significant decrease in the number of desquamating cells by 12% when Regetaste is applied at 2% versus 8% with the placebo. In addition, the integrity of physical skin
barrier function has been evaluated through a monitoring of transepidermal water loss, showing significant benefits within four days with a dose effect of Regetaste and even higher after seven days of treatment (Figure 1). This renovation of mature skin’s surface should be then translated in an improvement of skin’s roughness as well as a brightening effect of the complexion.
Smoother surface smoothens skin’s song
The benefits of Regetaste for skin’s surface has been evaluated by measuring skin’s song. Inspired by the way the human finger works,
the Touchy Finger® (Figure 2) is an augmented finger developed to measure the softness of surfaces. The device is equipped with miniature
vibration sensors and tracking force measurement sensors. Following the principle of augmented reality, the vibrations captured by the sensors are translated in a more perceptible parameter: sound (dB equivalent). The smoother the surface, the lower the sound. Figure 3 illustrates data observed with one volunteer during the in vivo study
Figure 3: Touchy Finger measurements (3/condition) taken on the cheek of one volunteer before (left half) and after (right half) two weeks application of Regetaste
described before. Evaluation of skin’s roughness variation is illustrated here through three measurements made on the face of the volunteer before treatment and three measurements made on the face after two weeks of treatment. Regarding the results of the global panel,
whereas no benefits has been measured with the placebo, two weeks of treatment with Regetaste allows a significant reduction of skin’s noise: -2.2dB (p<0.001 Wilcoxon test) translating a smoother skin surface. It is interesting to note that this tool is transforming
vibrations in noise following a logarithmic scale; in consequence, a variation of 1dB is equivalent ten times more or less noise. A complementary study has been made
with more conventional method on 62 volunteers aged between 40 and 65 year- old, using C-Cube acquisition. This study has confirmed the first data obtained with the Touchy Finger, since a significant average variation of skin roughness (Sa parameter) has been measured: -6% (p<0.05 Student test) with Regetaste applied at 2% versus +2% with the placebo after four weeks treatment. C-cube acquisition also allows to visualise the smoothing effect of skin surface through images (Figure 4).
Smoother skin surface smoothens skin’s vibrations The use of Touchy Finger does not only allow to measure skin’s surface but also to evaluate how the skin is perceived by the finger that touches it. Indeed, the captors also register and measure the vibration of the mechanoreceptors of the finger which is touching the skin surface. These measurements reveal a decrease in
Figure 4: Visualization of skin surface using C-Cube Technology before (left) and after (right) four weeks of treatment with Regetaste
PERSONAL CARE January 2024
the vibration of the four mechanoreceptors (Figure 5): Merkel cells, Meissner’s corpuscle, Ruffini corpuscle, Pacinian corpuscle (Figure 6). This means that when the finger touches the
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 2: Touchy Finger equipment A B
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