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10 NEWS


Peptides to be ‘huge’ in 2024 – NQ Innovations


Consumer demand for beauty products containing peptides is set to soar in 2024, according to British biochemist and owner of skincare development consultancy NQ Innovations Nausheen Qureshi (pictured). Speaking at the 2023 edition


of the SCS Formulate event in Coventry, UK on personal care trends, Qureshi said the combination of efficacy and mildness of modern peptides is increasingly attractive to beauty customers.


“I think peptides will be huge.


We first saw peptides 20 years ago with, for example, Matrixyl being quite big at the time. But now there is a return of peptides, more modern peptides, being used for lines, redness, pigmentation and so on,” she added. “The customer wants to see


results but they also want to see something gentle so I think we’re going to see peptides really battle


for position. “I daresay there will be


customers who will prefer peptides to a retinoid; for example those with more sensitive, reddened skin.” Qureshi said the rise of


peptides is coinciding with increased consumer awareness of biotechnology in personal care. “Social media, web searches and launches show the rise of ‘skintellectual’ consumers is advancing. Customers know more about ingredients and how products are made,” she added. “With this rise of


‘skintellectualism’, we are seeing consumers become more open to biotechnology. “Previously, some brands might


overcomplicate the science behind their products and consumers might have been scared off. But now it’s more simplified and the customer engages more. “Now, consumers are more


the potency of a formulation and the bioavailability of ingredients. They also help to preserve and stabilise formations, as well as the microbiome.” Another key trend predicted for


2024 is the rise of skin brightening ingredients. “Our research is telling us that


the customer no longer sees lines/ wrinkles as enemy number one. They want to have bright, radiant and glowing skin. “People don’t mind to have a


aware that by using smaller amounts of material we can make more efficacious ingredients through bio-engineering. We can also produce more concentrated forms.” In particular, said Qureshi,


fermented ingredients are gaining momentum faster than others. “They are gentle on the skin and we know they can enhance


few lines, they would prefer to look radiant and glowing. Brighter skin is the new image of skin health. “From social media, with its


‘glass skin’ and glow themes, we are seeing enhanced radiance is what the customer is looking for. So we are looking forward to seeing what ingredients we can pack into formulations to help with this demand from customers with dark spots, pigmentation, sun spots and the like.”


‘Hangover Beauty’ tipped to trend this year, says WGSN


‘Hangover Beauty’ is tipped to be a top personal care trend in 2024 according to a report by British forecasting outfit WGSN. ‘WGSN Beauty Trends for 2024’


identifies five key themes: Hangover Beauty, Scenting for Identity, Age- Agnostic Beauty, Backyard Beauty and Plant Milking. WGSN says hangover beauty is


a forgiving and honest approach to self-care fuelled by Gen Z’s growing anti-wellness attitude. “Stressed-out beauty consumers


are prioritizing joy and pleasure in their wellness routines and pushing back against strict regimes that don’t factor in fun or take into account that real life sometimes gets messy,” it adds. “A new wave of brands is


emerging that promotes indulgence and rejects the notion of sacrifice. Low-maintenance “hangover” beauty products are designed to address the effects of late nights and partying without judgment or hassle, and even include cosmetics that are formulated in a way that means you can fall asleep in your


PERSONAL CARE January 2024


makeup without feeling guilty.” Scenting for Identity means Gen


Z experimenting with scent layering and contemporary notes to express who they are, how they feel and where they are from. “With over 11 billion views,


#PerfumeTok has become a place of scent discovery, introducing contemporary fragrance brands, culture-led ingredients and trends such as ‘scent hacking’ to boost mood,” says WGSN. “The concept of the signature


scent will take on new meaning as fragrance choices become more


personalized, using neuroscience to guide choices based on individual mood and emotional responses.” Led by Boomers and Gen X,


Age-Agnostic Beauty is a rejection of traditional anti-ageing narratives and an obsession with youth. “Age-agnostic beauty will see


brands shift to meet consumers where they are with beauty products and language that serves the need, not the number. From skincare and haircare to cosmetics, age-agnostic beauty will enable everyone to age as appropriately or as inappropriately as they like. “For example, earlier this year,


The A Method shifted its “ethos” to a more “pro-age” message that encourages women to embrace beauty at any age.” Meanwhile, Backyard Beauty


is an emerging trend arising from a shift in sustainability focus to preservation. WGSN says soil will be recognized as a vital resource to be protected and replenished. “Sustainable beauty brands


will encourage caring for soil as we would our skin, implementing


circular systems and regenerative farming and making use of ‘soil saviours’ such as microbes and worms. “Soil and insects will be


embraced as alternative and abundant sources of beauty ingredients, rich in skin-beneficial actives.” In packaging, active


compostable materials that release soil-beneficial elements such as nitrogen and potassium when composted are expected to gain traction. Plant Milking is about the end


of abundance and the need for alternative ingredient sourcing in sustainable beauty. Plant milking uses aeroponic


cultivation and the extraction of active ingredients from the plant’s roots.


“Plant milking is environmentally


friendly and non-destructive, with the same plants ‘milked’ several times a year. It’s also 100% traceable, allowing beauty consumers to follow their product origins from root to routine.”


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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