HAIR CARE
initial hair swatches by -9.47% for placebo (*p<0.05 placebo versus initial) and -38.9% for moringa (**** p<0.0001 moringa versus initial and placebo), after just one application. Decrease in fluorescent intensity after
five applications of treatment was -11.63% for placebo (*p<0.05 placebo versus initial) and -56.07% (**** p<0.0001 moringa versus initial and placebo) for moringa. The degree to which moringa protein decreases fluorescence in both one and five applications is indicative of high substantivity and penetration into the hair fibres, resulting in effective entry into the cortex. Figure 2 shows cross-sectional penetration
of moringa one and five applications, in comparison to the untreated initial and placebo. Results show that moringa has strong affinity to the hair fibres, leaving fewer sites for the Rhodamine B dye to bind. The deeper colour in these images show that fluorescence is lowered due to the presence of the proteins, meaning that moringa can penetrate various layers of the fibre to deliver its benefits throughout.
Characterization of hair fibre via FTIR-ATR The characterization of hair fibre, specifically assessment of changes in disulphide bonds was executed by means of infrared spectroscopy, Fourier transform Infrared Spectroscopy- Attenuated Total Reflectance (FTIR-ATR). Double bleached Caucasian hair tresses were treated with 1% moringa hydrolyzed protein incorporated into a protein-free shampoo for application and its performance was compared to a placebo protein-free shampoo. Subsequently, the hair fibres were air-dried for
24 hours under controlled conditions at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2°C. Cystine repair was determined through FTIR-ATR analysis utilizing the Model Frontier –PerkinElmer with ATR cell Pike Technologies and ZnSe crystal, in triplicate, resulting in three sets of data per treatment. The area ratio between the infrared
71
0
-10 -20 -30 -40 -50 -60
* -9.47
**** ****
-38.9 *
**** ****
-56.07 Placebo ■ 1% Moringa ■
Figure 1: Percentage change in fluorescent intensity after one and five applications of hydrolyzed protein active and placebo treatments compared to initial
spectrum bands at 1650 cm-1 and 1040 cm-1 was determined due to the significance of these regions. The band at 1040 cm-1 refers to the asymmetrical stretching of the S=O bond in the –SO3- and –S–O2- groups, main components of the oxidative process cystine undergoes when damaged. The spectra acquired were standardized using the absorbance band at 1650 cm-1, which signifies the C=O bond of the primary amide. The greater the ratio between the areas indicates a greater amount of S=O bond degradation, referring to cystine ligation and the integrity of hair.
Results The FTIR-ATR study results of the moringa hydrolyzed protein treated hair versus placebo is displayed in Figure 3. The tested hair tresses with one application of treatments demonstrated area ratios of cystine to amide bands of 0.2989 for placebo, with no statistical significance and 0.2566 with statistical significance of *p<0.05 versus placebo. The moringa hydrolyzed protein treatment
showed significantly lowered area ratio (cystine/amide) values when compared to
initial conditions and when compared to placebo treatment. The decrease in area ratio in comparison with placebo indicates that moringa repairs the S=O bonds referring to cystine ligations. Thus, the moringa protein showed 14% cystine repair in relation to tresses treated with the placebo treatment.
Hair fibre tensile strength evaluation The effectiveness of moringa protein to increase tensile strength versus untreated and placebo was objectively measured on one-time bleached Caucasian hair via Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester & Dia-Stron Crimp Assembly System. This machine uses a tensile tester to measure the force required to reach the breaking point of a fibre to determine the strength and various related mechanical properties, before and after treatment. More information can also be extrapolated
through analyzing portions of the total strain applied to the hair fibre. At around 25% strain, the ‘yield’ region indicates a turnover point for the integrity of the hair fibre, more specifically an α-helix and β-sheets transition. In this region the force is minimal, but the hair
fibre extension is great. At this 25% level of strain, about 30% of the α-helix structures can unfold reversibly without breaking S-S bonds, and the other 70% cannot extend without breaking S-S interactions, due to their bonds with other proteins. One-time bleached Caucasian hair tresses
Untreated Placebo 1 Application Moringa 1 Application
were treated with 1% moringa hydrolyzed protein incorporated into a protein-free shampoo for application and its performance was compared to a placebo protein-free shampoo. Hair fibres were air-dried for 24 hours under controlled conditions at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2°C. Tensile strength measurements were taken
before treatment to develop a baseline of the mechanical properties of the hair and after five applications of the placebo and moringa treatments (50 hair fibres per group).
Placebo 5 Applications Moringa 5 Applications
Figure 2: Fluorescence microscopy images of cross-sectional hair fibres after one and five applications of hydrolyzed protein active and placebo treatments compared to initial
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Results Tensile strength testing for total work to reach the break point was reported as percent change from initial readings to five applications of each respective treatment, as shown in Figure 4. Placebo treatment resulted in an 8.87% change from baseline, with no statistical significance. The moringa protein effectively increased
January 2024 PERSONAL CARE ** -11.63
% Change in Fluorescent Intensity Comparedto Initial
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80
