68 HAIR CARE
conditioner will increase the resistance of the hair in 33% (Fatigue test, Figure 4).
Lupin peptides SymProt’in Lupin is composed mainly of di- and tripeptides with a significant amount of arginine. The use of this specific amino acid is very well-known for hair care since it is one of the main amino acids found in keratin proteins. Due to the low molecular weight and polarity of lupin peptides, the ingredient is able to reach the cortex and interact with the damaged area. It will help repair the keratin and prevent further damage. Differential scanning calorimetry analysis
was performed to demonstrate the ability of Lupin peptides to repair the keratin within the hair fibre. DSC analysis measures the enthalpy (variation in energy) of a given system during a phase transition. This amount of energy is dependent on
the amount and quality of the keratin in the hair. The active ingredient was applied at 1% in shampoo and conditioner on bleached Caucasian hair tresses versus placebo shampoo and conditioner. The tresses were rinsed then left overnight for drying. The enthalpy of denaturation is shown
in Figure 5. Comparisons among treatments were performed using one-way variance analysis (ANOVA), followed by Tukey’s Honestly Significant Difference (HSD) test, at a 95% confidence interval. It was proved to be an efficient ingredient
to stabilize and restore the structural integrity of damage hair fibre by interacting with the amino acid residues of the cortex. It was also compared to animal derived proteins considered as benchmarks: hydrolyzed collagen and hydrolyzed keratin. It was shown that the ingredient performs as good as hydrolyzed keratin and even better than hydrolyzed collagen. While restoring the keratin quality, lupin
peptides are a great natural and green alternative to animal derived proteins. In addition to the mass restoration benefit, this ingredient was tested in tensile assessment and showed improvement in the mechanical properties of damaged hair. It helped restore strength and resistance and protected against breakage.
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
15.35 13.20 A B A B 1.00 Samples 0.75 0.50 0.25 0.00 0 2500 5000 Number of Cycles
Figure 4: Fatigue test: the hair is 33% more resistant in comparison to the placebo (Characteristic Life alpha corresponds to the number of cycles at which 63.2% of the fibres have broken)
Conclusion Hair damage is a major concern for consumers globally that are looking for efficient solutions to repair and protect their hair. They are looking for natural and sustainable solutions without compromising on performance. While proteins are already well-known to help rescue damaged hair, peptides are more and more recognized as innovative and ‘hi-tech” ingredients. Symrise is now offering a full set of
ingredients to repair the hair, from native proteins with its best seller SymHair Restore, to natural biomimetic peptides with SymProt’in Oat and SymProt’in Lupin. Offering complementary actions on the hair fibre, they will ensure the improvement of sensoriality and appearance via fibre coating, and also mass restoration and improvement of strength while reducing hair breakage.
Verlag Berlin Heidelberg; 2012
2. Moll R, Divo M, Langbein L. The human keratins: biology and pathology. Histochem. Cell. Biol. 2008;129(6):705-33. DOI: 10.1007/ s00418-008-0435-6
3. Miranda-Vilela et al. 2014 4. Franbourg, 2003. 5. Symrise CICS database 2022 in 10 countries (France, Germany, Turkey, South Africa, USA, Mexico, Brazil, India, China, South Korea)
6. Wortmann FJ, Zahnt H. The Stress Strain Curve of alpha-Keratin Fibres and the Structure of Intermediate Filaments. Textile Research Journal. 1994;64(12): 737-743
7. Evans T. Measuring hair strength – Part 1: Stress-Strain Curves. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 2013; 128(8):591-594
PC
References 1. Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. New York, NY: Springer-
14.89 13.31
8. Malinauskyte E, Shrestha R, Cornwell PA, Gourion-Arsiquaud S, Hindley M. Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2020;1–12
7500 10000 SymProt'In Oat
(Sh 2.0% / Cond 2.0%) Placebo
(Sh / Cond)
Characteristic life (Alpha)
1690 1269
Placebo ■ SymProt'in Oat (Sh 2.0% / Cond 2.0%) ■
(Sh 1.0% / Cond 1.0%)
Symprot'in Lupin
(Sh / Cond)
Placebo
Hydrolyzed Keratin (Sh 2.0% / Cond 2.0%)
Hydrolyzed Collagen (Sh 0.5% / Cond 0.5%)
Figure 5: DSC (differential scanning calorimetry) assessment. Different letters mean p<0.05. Calculated using one-way ANOVA, followed by Tukey’s honestly significant difference (HSD) test at a 95% confidence interval
PERSONAL CARE January 2024
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keratin degradation (J/g)
Energy required for
Survival Probability
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