ANTI-AGEING
weeks of treatment a pronounced decrease in crow’s feet wrinkle area, length and volume was observed. Compared to initial conditions, crow’s feet
wrinkle area and volume were decreased by 42% and 49.6% respectively. Furthermore, the wrinkle length was decreased by 29.6% compared to initial conditions. Similar effects were observed when
analysing the forehead wrinkles. Compared to initial conditions, forehead wrinkle area and volume were decreased by 54.9% and 45.6%, respectively. The overall forehead wrinkle length was decreased by 53.2%. Taken together, treatment with
phytoglycogen results in beneficial effects for the skin, including a better skin hydration and a reduction of wrinkles. This ultimately yields a more even and healthy-looking skin. Glycogen can deliver energy, which may aid in the skin damage response and possibly help prevent skin hyperpigmentation. Previous in vitro studies revealed a minor but significant inhibition of melanin synthesis with 0.5% phytoglycogen. Therefore, the clinical effects of
phytoglycogen on skin hyperpigmentation was investigated. After treatment with 0.1% phytoglycogen for six weeks, skin hyperpigmentation and skin tone evenness were significantly improved, by 30% and 37%, respectively (Figure 5A). This reduction in skin hyperpigmentation
was also evident in the analysis of the pigment spots. After six weeks, the contrast differences of the spots improved by 22.1% for L* 24.1% for a* 15.2% for b* and they became less visible (Figure 5B). Therefore, the skin-energizing effects of the phytoglycogen can also improve skin hyperpigmentation, leading to a more even complexion. As previously shown, treatment with the
phytoglycogen improved skin hydration. A known benchmark for skin hydration includes the use of HA in formulations. However, this can encounter certain difficulties including viscosity issues of the formulation. Therefore, exploring effective alternatives to
HA are of increasing interest. The moisturizing effects of the phytoglycogen, compared to or combined with HA, were investigated with surprising results.
200 150 100 50 0
** A 150 100 50 0 hyperpigmentation Skin
Skin tone eveness *p<0.05 versus placebo
Figure 5: Clinical: Reduction of skin hyperpigmentation After just one hour, a single treatment with
0.1% phytoglycogen boosted skin hydration by 155.3%, compared to baseline, demonstrating again the immediate hydrating effects. This effect was still present after seven hours, which further highlights a long-lasting effect on skin hydration. Importantly, these effects were comparable to the treatments with 0.1% HA (Figure 6). Intriguingly, the combination blend
with lower concentrations (0.05% each) of phytoglycogen and HA led to a significantly higher hydrating effect (+199% after just one hour). This indicates a synergistic effect of the two actives, leading to superior effects to the treatments with the single actives alone. Evidently, formulating with the plant-based
glycogen can boost the skin moisturizing effects of HA. Therefore, less amounts of either ingredient are required to achieve the same effect, and HA formulations can reach higher hydration levels without sacrificing texture or skin feel.
Conclusion The novel plant-based glycogen, isolated from a special non-GMO sweetcorn, has numerous benefits for the skin. By energizing the skin cells, it can boost cell metabolism and promote HA and collagen I production. This results in anti-ageing benefits, including a reduction of wrinkles and pigment spots.
■ Control ■ 0.1% Phytoglycogen ■ 0.1% hyaluronic acid ■ 0.05% Phytoglycogen +0.05% hyaluronic acid *
*** * * * * * * * ** * * After 6 weeks
■ Placebo ■ 0.1% Phytoglycogen *
* B Before
39
Furthermore, the immediate and long-
lasting hydrating effect make the phytoglycogen an excellent ingredient for cosmetic formulations. Moreover, the active has HA- boosting effects, which allows formulators to reduce the amount of HA used, without sacrificing moisturizing effects. In summary, the phytoglycogen is a safe and
natural multi-purpose cosmetic active, which yields excellent benefits for the skin.
PC
References 1. Blatt T, Lenz H, Koop U, Jaspers S, Weber T, Mummert C et al. Stimulation of skin‘s energy metabolism provides multiple benefits for mature human skin. BioFactors. 2005;25(1- 4):179-85
2. Calleja-Agius J, Muscat-Baron Y, Brincat MP. Skin ageing. Menopause Int. 2007;13(2):60-4
3. Halprin KM, Ohkawara A. Glucose and glycogen metabolism in the human epidermis. J. Invest. Dermatol. 1966;46(1):43-50
4. Yatsuhashi H, Furuyashiki T, Vo PHT, Kamasaka H, Kuriki T. Effects of Glycogen on Ceramide Production in Cultured Human Keratinocytes via Acid Sphingomyelinase Activation. J. Appl. Glycosci. (1999). 2021;68(2):41-6
5. Ando H, Ichihashi M, Hearing VJ. Role of the ubiquitin proteasome system in regulating skin pigmentation. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2009;10(10):4428-34
6. Shi J, Guo Y, Wang H, Xiao Y, Liu W, Lyu L. The ubiquitin-proteasome system in melanin metabolism. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2022;21(12):6661-8
7. Grossutti M, Dutcher JR. Correlation of mechanical and hydration properties of soft phytoglycogen nanoparticles. Carbohydr. Polym. 2021;251:116980
8. Simmons J, Nickels JD, Michalski M, Grossutti M, Shamana H, Stanley CB et al. Structure, Hydration, and Interactions of Native and Hydrophobically Modified Phytoglycogen Nanoparticles. Biomacromolecules. 2020;21(10):4053-62
1 hour 3 hours Figure 6: Synergistic hydration effect with hyaluronic acid
www.personalcaremagazine.com 5 hours 7 hours
*p<0.01 versus untreated control **p<0.05 versus hyaluronic acid
9. Dutcher JR, Grossutti M, Atkinson J, Baylis B, Shamana H, Bergmann E et al. Phytoglycogen Nanoparticles: Exciting Science and Promising Technologies from Nature. La Physique au Canada. 2017;73(2): 91-94
January 2024 PERSONAL CARE
compared to initial conditions in %
Change in skin hydration
Improvment in parameter compared to placebo in %
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