90 EYE AREA CARE a *
160 150 140 130 120 110 100 90
* p<0.05 * *
160 150 140 130 120 110 100 90
Control 0.25 0.5 % Dunaliella salina extract 1 2 Control * p<0.05 * * * * b
0.125
0.5 % Dunaliella salina extract
Figure 2: A) Dunaliella salina extract dose-dependently protects mitochondria against oxidative stress caused by free radicals, B) Dunaliella salina extract significantly and dose-dependently increases the ATP content up to 140%.2
to have a positive effect in vitro on the skin of the periorbital area, the blend composition was tested in vivo and showed increased positive skin effects. Because of innovative composition and the study results with proven activity, the blend was patented by DSM Nutritional Products Europe. The developed blend is suitable for cosmetic products marketed worldwide including China. The ingredients are mentioned in the Chinese inventory of existing cosmetic ingredients. The following paragraphs provide a scientific insight into the different ingredients. Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH is a small synthetic tripeptide with a unique sequence that imitates the human body’s own mechanism to produce collagen via Transforming Growth Factor-beta (TGF-β). Collagen represents the main component of the extracellular matrix of the dermal connective tissue.2
Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH
shows in vitro a dose dependent stimulation of collagen type I in cultured skin fibroblasts (Fig 1A).3
It thus acts against
the accelerated collagen degradation induced by Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF- α), Matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP-3) and Interleukin-8 (IL-8) (Fig 1B). TGF-β stimulated collagen accumulation in cells4 and was used as positive control.2
A study by Heidl et al. with four groups of 15 volunteers shows that deep wrinkles are significantly reduced and the overall skin appearance is improved. Each volunteer applied a Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH containing cream on one half of the face twice a day during 84 days.5 Dunaliella salina is a very small unicellular microalga, discovered in 1838 by Dunal in the salters of Montpellier. It grows in salt water with up to 30% salinity which is nine times higher than sea water. Living in such harsh conditions, Dunaliella salina has become an expert for surviving. Dunaliella salina extracts have found applications in the food, drug and cosmetic industry. Dunaliella salina are mentioned for being a rich source of β-carotene. Aboul-Enein et al. and El-Baz et al. describe that Dunaliella salina inhibit the lipid peroxidation by scavenging reactive oxygen species and stopping the chain reaction.6,7 In vitro data confirm the action against oxidative stress (Fig 2A). Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) is used in cells as a coenzyme of intracellular energy transfer. Dunaliella salina extract is stimulating ATP in a dose dependent manner in human keratinocytes HaCaT. Dunaliella salina extract seems to protect mitochondria membrane and to reload skin cells with new energy. Dunaliella salina increased collagen
synthesis and stimulated cell proliferation and turnover.8
Additionally, this microalgae
extract showed excellent short and long- term skin elasticity properties.9 Pro vitamin B5 or D-panthenol has been used since many years for skin care products. Applied to the skin, D-panthenol readily converts to pantothenic acid. Pantothenic acid, also known as vitamin B5, is part of the B group vitamins and classified as a water-soluble vitamin. It is known for moisturising the skin and improving skin elasticity.10 skin cells11
It supports the regeneration of
and is mentioned for anti-itching, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties.12
Pantothenic acid is recognised
as an important component in the energy cycle of the cell. Panthenol itself can also attract water into the upper layer of the skin and can enhance its regeneration.13 Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide of the human body, which is important for connective tissue and plays a role in cell proliferation and cell migration. It is mainly found in the extracellular matrix. The molecular size of hyaluronic acid can vary. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (350 to 550 kD) provides better penetration abilities than larger sized hyaluronic acid.14 In vivo research results mentioned hyaluronic acid for skin moisturising effects and elasticity properties.15
Topical
application of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid improves skin functioning and provides anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle effects, which could be achieved by strengthening its penetration.16,17
In vivostudy The four-in-one blend’s efficacy was evaluated at 1% level in a four-week study at Laboratoire Dermscan in Lyon, France. The blend as well as the competitive benchmark have been tested against placebo in an eye care cream in parallel groups. The study ran as a simple randomised split-face study with 36
Figure 3: Significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles compared to placebo. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE September 2018
1
2
Mitochondrial Membrane Potential (% vs control)
ATP (% control)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112