ANTI-AGEING CONFERENCE 27
New developments in anti-ageing discussed
n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
The Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference was held on the 5-6 June 2018 at the Royal College of General Practitioners, London, UK. The two-day international meeting was established as a high-level forum for in- depth presentations and discussions on the scientific, regulatory and marketing issues affecting this rapidly developing anti- ageing skin care sector.
The general theme of the conference focused on defining and maintaining healthy skin and safe-guarding against premature skin ageing. The effects of environmental insults, genetics and the benefits of active skin care products and nutrition were discussed.
Day 1
Bianca McCarthy, PhD, from the University of Sydney, looked into the role of vitamin D in skin protection. Topical application of vitamin D3 focuses on the fact that the skin is where vitamin D is synthesised and it is also a target for vitamin D3 activity which reduces DNA damage caused by UV exposure. However, it is expensive, unstable and has some side-effects. Other vitamin D compounds, such as curcumin can reduce UV-induced DNA damage that can otherwise lead to melanoma. Vitamin D compounds can also prevent aspects of photoageing in the skin, such as epidermal thickening, elastin accumulation and elastin disorientation thanks to its ability to reduce DNA damage. Bianca McCarthy then looked at the use of curcumin in an aftersun treatment and showed that it can also help to protect against damage after UV exposure, as well as showing a sunscreen protecting during exposure.
The molecular anatomy of dry and photodamaged stratum corneum was the focus for Professor Anthony Rawlings’ presentation on the first day. Moisturisation is still a major unmet need among consumers and the face is the primary area of concern. Prof Rawlings first looked at the composition of the stratum corneum and the biochemistry of corneocyte formation before using proteomic analysis of facial
September 2018
stratum corneum to discover more about dry and photodamaged skin. Proteomics is the large scale identification and characterisation of proteins in a cell, tissue or organism. A proteomic study of stratum corneum in menopausal dry skin showed that facial stratum corneum is thinner than on other body sites and NMF-deficient. Dr Di Qu of Amway R&D described the development of an image analysis method for in vivo measurement of skin visual roughness. Skin roughness is visually perceivable and is a key parameter linked to consumer perceptions of overall skin condition, health and age. There are shortcomings with the existing methods of measuring skin roughness due to the fact they measure a small area, the result is quite difficult to understand and communicate and the results are not visually intuitive.
Amway decided to develop an objective method for measuring visual skin roughness in a large skin area, and in a method convenient for use in multiple measurements in large population samples. The SVR (Skin Visual Roughness index) uses image analysis to filter out the pigmentation effect, detect the shadowed areas, detect the high reflection areas,
highlight the unique surface structure and offer particle analysis of surface patterns. The results show that the SVR correlates well with panel perception results and its pseudo volume concept reflects the visual properties of skin imperfections which lead to the perception of roughness. Stephan Bielfeldt from ProDerm Institute followed with a discussion about ‘anti- polluageing’ claims and how they can be supported. Pollution protection has been a major trend in recent years, first emerging in Asia but transferring across the globe. Pollution contributes to skin ageing via oxidation of skin proteins, lipids and other skin molecules and represents the second most important factor of extrinsic skin ageing after photoageing. Testing anti- pollution claims involves a number of different methods, and the presentation covered the use of harmless carbon particles and the effectiveness of a cosmetic cream. Also covered was the use of cigarette smoke as a substitute for polluted air. In the cigarette smoke model, assessments are performed on the back or volar forearm. Fresh cigarette smoke is used and assessments are mode on oxidised skin molecules from sebum and/or skin barrier lipids.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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