HAIR TREATMENT 55
Figure 8: Proposed mechanisms of action for the lipophilic active. Activoil Kerox-Pro provides two key components endowed with antioxidant (Magnolia extract) and re-lipidifying (cis-13-docosenoic acid) properties. Their synergistic action would help prevent oxidation of the CMC lipids and the cystine of the cuticle. Besides, reducing pigment oxidation and degradation will support a better colour retention. Through a biomimetic mechanism, cis-13-docosenoic acid could strengthen the density of the F-layer and the integrity of the lipidic CMC for protection and repair against environmental stressors and grooming activities.
strength and depigmentation are manifestations of hair weathering. Protecting hair from such harms requires an adequate combination of bio-active components. Activoil Kerox-Pro, a completely liposoluble active ingredient, has been developed to counteract hair weathering and repair it once damage has already been caused. Activoil Kerox-Pro acts by increasing the endogenous antioxidant potential of the hair fibre. Furthermore, the ingredient provides unique biomimetic fatty acids that could participate to the densification of the F-layer (Fig 8). In this article, benefits from the combined action of Activoil Kerox-Pro have been demonstrated for the cuticle ultrastructure, colour retention and shine. Furthermore, its repair action was shown by a full recovery of the hair shine that was lost upon repeated exposure to a hot straightening iron.
The application of Activoil Kerox-Pro is not limited to protecting and repairing hair from external aggressions but could also extend to an anti-ageing action. Indeed, it has been demonstrated that the content of 18-MEA in the F-layer decreases with age. Furthermore, the loss of cuticle associated with the grooming process is also age- dependent.17 Activoil Kerox-Pro can be part of various
formulations designed for photoprotection, colour retention, anti-pollution, damaged hair and anti-ageing treatments. In addition to be suited for lotions, masks, shampoo or
September 2018
conditioners, the lipophilic feature of Activoil Kerox-Pro becomes an asset when formulating hair oils.
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2 Wertz PW. Integral lipids of hair and stratum corneum. EXS. 1997;78:227-237.
3 Cheong DW, Lim FCH and Zhang L. Insights into the structure of covalently bound fatty acid monolayers on a simplified model of the hair epicuticle from molecular dynamics simulations. Langmuir 2012;28:13008−13017
4 Tanamachi H, Tokunaga S, Tanji, Oguri M, Inoue S. 18-MEA and hair appearance. J Cosmet Sci. 2010;61:147–160.
5 Richena M, Rezende CA. Effect of photodamage on the outermost cuticle layer of human hair. Journal of Photochem Photobiol, B: Biology. 2015;153:296–304
6 Cao Y, Qu H, Xiong C, Liu C, Zheng L. A novel method for non-destructive determination of hair photoinduced damage based on multispectral imaging technology. Sci. Rep. 2017;7,45544;1-8.
7 Fernández E E et al. Photodamage determination of human hair. J. Photochem. Photobiol. B: Biol. 2012;106:101–106.
8 Hong Ji J et al. The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation. Ann Dermatol. 2013;25:54-60.
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Photochem. Photobiol. B: Biol. 2015;153: 240–246.
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10 Osório F, Tosti A. Hair weathering, part 1: hair structure and pathogenesis. Cosmet Dermatol. 2011; 24:533-538.
11 Lee Y et al. Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol. 2011;23:455-462.
12 Benzie, FF, Strain, JJ. Ferric reducing/ antioxidant power assay: direct measure of total antioxidant activity of biological fluids and modified version for simultaneous measurement of total antioxidant power and ascorbic acid concentration. Methods in enzymology. 1999;299:15-23
13 Mahy M, van Eycken L, Oosterlinck A. Evaluation of uniform color spaces developed after the adoption of CIELAB and CIELUV. Color research and application. 1994;9:105- 121.
14 Aparecida da França S et al. Types of hair dye and their mechanisms of action. Cosmetics 2015;2:110-126.
15 Zhou Y et al. The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2011;62:265–282.
16 Okamoto M et al. Influence of internal structures of hair fibre on hair appearance III. Generation of light-scattering factors in hair cuticles and the influence on hair shine. J Cosmet Sci. 2003;54:353-366.
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