22 TUTORIAL
smooth surface over time. To create this texture, polymers that impart viscoelastic behaviour to the product are required, such as Adeka’s Adeka NOL GT-730 or Alzo International’s Dermothix-100. These rheology modifiers are often made from block copolymers where the end caps are hydrophobic and the centre is hydrophilic, leading to the formation of cross-linked micelles that gel water.10
These
supramolecular structures can be readily broken and reformed, leading to a memory gel texture.
Convenient, customisable packaging Korean products have also garnered a lot of attention due to their creative packaging. A great example of this is the cushion compact where liquid foundation is loaded beneath a sponge, and an applicator is pressed onto the sponge to pick up the right amount of foundation. The packaging is convenient and the product can be applied easily ‘on the go’. This product format was a huge hit when it first launched and is now considered a staple product on the Korean market.
Many companies have started to use packaging to offer an extra touch of customisation where the user can personalise their product. Examples include Innisfree’s Aqua Fit Cushion, which allows the customer to choose from a variety of sponge patterns and case styles, and Etude House’s Any Cushion Decoden Kit, which comes with a piping kit and pack of charms that the customer can use to decorate the outer case of the cushion compact at home. Carrying on the trend for convenience,
products in stick format are very trendy in Korea. They are easy to carry in a bag without the risk of leaking any fluid and they can be applied directly to the skin so that the user’s hands do not get messy. Many types of skin care are now being offered in stick format with sun sticks and multi-balms (for moisturising areas of dry skin) being among the most popular.
Traditional herbs and provenance It is interesting to note that despite offering futuristic, high tech thinking to product development, a lot of the research for active ingredients in South Korea stems from deep- rooted tradition. Hero ingredients such as ginseng, green tea and fermentation derivatives have a long heritage in Korean herbal medicine, and in recent years there has been a push to understand more about these ingredients and how they could be used successfully in skin care. Sulwhasoo, AmorePacific’s luxury skin care line, launched in 1966 and has been heavily researching the various benefits of different parts of the Red Ginseng plant and other Korean herbal medicinal ingredients ever since.11
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Increased research into plant extracts is a global phenomenon with many suppliers adding more plant-based actives for various skin benefits to their ingredient portfolios. The differentiating factor for Korean brands in particular is the focus on using local and/or traditional plants. For example, Innisfree’s brand story revolves around ingredients sourced from Jeju Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site off the south coast of Korea. When formulating K-Beauty inspired skin care for the European market, the question would be whether to include Korean plants or to be inspired by plants that are traditional to the location of the formulator/brand.
Instant effects Korean consumers expect their products to work well and work quickly. With so many products being launched, if a product is not good enough to encourage repeat purchases then it will have a very short shelf- life in the competitive Korean marketplace. One part of the equation is to ensure
products have a true efficacy, for example by packing a hydrating gel full of moisturising ingredients that will improve the skin’s texture over time. The other part to consider is the instant effect that the consumer will see as soon as they apply the product. Ingredients such as soft focus microspheres that diminish the appearance of fine lines, and sebum absorbing powders that instantly reduce shine can be the key to ensuring that the consumer perceives that the product is having an immediate effect.
Conclusion
It is clear to see that although there are some similar trends occurring in both Korea and Europe, there are also many differences. Many factors need to be
considered when formulating K-Beauty inspired products for the European market. In most cases it is not simply a question of copying a Korean benchmark ingredient- by-ingredient, but delving deeper to see how to capture the essence of K-Beauty in a product that will be suitable for the European market.
At Enkos Developments, one of our specialities is using my knowledge of Korea to help European brands to develop K- Beauty inspired products. Being half Korean and half English I have a strong affinity for both countries and I frequently travel to Korea to visit companies that we work with and to research new K-Beauty products and trends. The Korean beauty industry is fast- paced, creative, scientific, innovative, and one that I am proud to be a part of.
PC
References 1
https://sokoglam.com/pages/the-korean-skin- care-routine
2
https://www.businesswire.com/news/ home/20151025005016/en/Est%C3%A9e- Lauder-Companies-Invest-Dr.-Jart
3
https://www.loreal-finance.com/eng/news- release/loreal-acquires-korean-stylenanda-
1256.htm
4
https://ohklife.com/pages/about 5
https://cosmetic.chemlinked.com/ countrypage/south-korea-cosmetics-regulation
6 Lucas Meyer, WildPlum Harvest brochure 7 DuPont Tate & Lyle, Genencare OS MS brochure
8
https://www.etudehouse.com/int/en/ index.php/sweet-pudding-tone-up-cream-oil-
control.html
9 Sunjin Beauty Science Catalogue, WaterDropSil and EcoDropGel
10 Adeka Presentation GT-730 March 2017 11
http://www.sulwhasoo.com/int/en/about /
sulwhasoo.html
September 2018
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