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HAIR TREATMENT 53 3


2.5 2


1.5 1


0.5 0


ActivoilTM Kerox-ProTM Placebo


Figure 4: Protection of radiation-induced visible colour change. Red dyed hair tresses treated with either a placebo or the same formulation containing the lipophilic active were exposed to radiation. The L* a* b* spectrophotometric parameters were computed as the ΔE*ab


threshold of 2.3 is the limit above which there is an Eye Noticeable Difference (END) in colour.


(shine) was calculated as the ratio between directional and diffuse reflected light and expressed as arbitrary units (au).


Results Untreated hair tresses have an endogenous antioxidant potential that mainly relies on the presence of pigments and specific amino acids. This natural property was demonstrated by the reducing (hence antioxidant) capability of untreated hair tresses in the FRAP assay. A treatment with the lipophilic active significantly increases this antioxidant potential. Furthermore, this antioxidant reinforcement provided by the lipophilic active resists to an exposure to radiation unlike what was observed in the placebo treatment (Fig 3).


Figure 5: Protection from radiation-induced structural damage. Permanently dyed hair tresses treated with either with a placebo (C, D and E) or the same formulation containing the lipophilic active (F, G and H) were exposed to radiation with a solar simulator encompassing the UV, blue light and infrared wavelength spectrum. Hair shafts were prepared for SEM procedures. An untreated hair fibre (A) and a diagram of a normal hair fibre (B) were used as references.


In their role of natural hair antioxidants, pigments react with free radicals and reactive oxygen species formed by radiation (mainly UV) and become oxidised themselves. In the process, pigment chromophores are degraded leading to hair colour fading. The antioxidant enhancing action of the lipophilic active led us to investigate its effect in protecting pigments from photodegradation and thereby preventing colour fading. Changes in


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colour can be quantified calculating the ∆E*ab


ratio in a spectrophotometric assay.


Placebo-treated tresses displayed a ∆E*ab ratio higher than 2.3; the limit above which any change in colour can be perceptible by eye. A treatment with the lipophilic active succeeded to maintain the change below the threshold of 2.3 meaning that it prevented any eye noticeable difference (END) in colour (Fig 4). Preventing the radiation-induced hair colour fading is


END


. A ΔE*ab


For more information call +44 (0)208 1233 196 or email eu.sales@asdsoftware.com


www.asdsoftware.com September 2018 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


∆E* ab


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