SKIN CARE 101
Third generation peptides just around corner
n Mondon P PhD, Ringenbach C MSc, Doridot E MSc, Leroux R PhD - Sederma, France
A peptide is a linear sequence of amino acids (AA); a protein is also a linear sequence of amino acids, but it is a much longer chain. The boundary between the two is not officially fixed, but from a molecular weight of 10,000 Daltons (about 100 amino acids), we talk about proteins rather than peptides. An oligopeptide is composed of two to about twenty AA, after which polypeptides are referred to. Several decades ago, the first generation of peptides was composed of protein hydrolysates. Indeed, when we take a beautiful protein obtained on a large scale by extraction from a natural source (skin collagen, milk casein, hair keratin or bird feathers, wheat, soy, potato or lupine proteins..) and subjected to a controlled hydrolysis (either enzymatically or by strong acid), we obtain a mixture of peptide fragments, whose composition in size (ie length of the chains, distribution AA ...) varies from one protein to another, or even from one production to another, since the hydrolysis is not very specific and the result is a little random. So the products with the INCI name of ‘wheat / soy protein / milk / lupine protein hydrolysate’, the ‘hydrolysed collagen / elastin / keratin / silk ...’, all compounds of a blend of ‘peptides’, were already in cosmetic products of all kinds for a very long time. Many formulators then used peptides in their creams and shampoos consciously or unconsciously. Inexpensive preparations, easy to use, bringing a little texture, some kind of hydration thanks to hygroscopy, a little hair sheathing, even strengthening of the cuticles, these hydrolysates were (and still are) useful and popular basic ingredients.
It was in the early 1990s, following the BSE (‘mad cow’) crisis, that ‘cleansed’ the field of active ingredients of any ‘animal contamination’, that synthetic peptides, of high biological specificity, first appeared. The second generation of messenger peptides emerged with the development of defined sequences reproducing endogenous skin peptides called Matrikines®
. September 2018 Abstract
Peptides are widely known and recognised for their effectiveness and their benefits on skin and hair beauty. The figures speak for themselves: between 1,600 and 2,000 new products dedicated to skin care containing peptides are launched every year in the world (Source Mintel GNPD) and this trend does not weaken. The first generation was composed of protein hydrolysates whose composition in peptide fragments was variable. The development of defined sequences that were reproducing endogenous skin peptides represented the second generation of messenger peptides called Matrikines®
. Their biomimetics and their proven efficacy made them emblematic assets of cosmetics with diverse activities. This article aims to introduce the latest discoveries of a new generation of peptides.
Figure 1: Copper complex of a glycyl—histidyl-lysine (GHK) peptide, a Matrikine example.
A concept born from the advances in the understanding of cutaneous repair mechanisms after injury1
, “Matrikines® ” are
fragments of peptides resulting from matrix proteolysis during the cleaning of the cutaneous wound before healing. The proteolysis of collagen, elastin and fibronectin fibres generates soluble peptides, true autocrine and paracrine messengers able to upstream regulate the sequence of events necessary for good healing 2
. Extracellular matrix hydrolysis
products, thus recycled into cellular messengers, are generated and available at the injured site providing favourable conditions for quick wound healing at lower energetic cost. All these Matrikines are able to retroact on the processes of connective tissue turnover and cell proliferation and are produced in greater quantities during the skin repair process compared to a normal periodic tissue renewal. But with age, and the gradual decline of many cellular functions, these systems lose effectiveness, which clearly shows the benefits of these Matrikines for cosmetic applications. These
can be very effective provided they are stabilised and sufficiently oil soluble for a good skin penetration.
Development of a new generation of peptides
Nowadays, peptides are widely known and recognised for their effectiveness and their benefits on skin and hair beauty. The figures speak for themselves: between 1600 and 2000 new products dedicated to skin care containing peptides are launched every year in the world (Source Mintel GNPD) and this trend does not weaken. Their biomimetics and their proven efficacy made them emblematic assets of cosmetics with diverse activities: anti-wrinkle, firmness / suppleness, anti-gravity / lifting, eye care, lash care, lip care, soothing, hair growth, stretch marks, anti-redness, whitening / brightening, tanning, peeling, immune system, detox, hydration, slimming / anti- cellulite. Sederma, with its 30 years of know-how in peptide development and as a precursor of the development of peptides for cosmetic purposes, is constantly looking
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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