34 SKIN CARE
it was mildly photosensitising to the skin as was the kojic acid. The same kind of irritation response was not noted for the botanical blend. This is important as hydroquinone and kojic acid are considered very effective skin lightening ingredients. Commercial use of hydroquinone frequently comes with a known skin irritation effect that is undesirable. The ingredients in the new complex blend affect similar skin tone pigment control while presenting none of the apparent irritating effects of hydroquinone.
Formulating with the new complex The encapsulated botanical blend is easy to work with. The actives come encapsulated in either a maltodextrin encapsulant or in a starch matrix if required. Because it is a powder (Fig 5), the new complex gives straightforward accuracy in formulation concentration. Direct addition of the powdered actives to water can be done at various stages of the formulation process. Ideally, the actives should be added near the end of the formulating batch process when the temperature of the batch is ≤40˚C. This can help to protect the actives against potential damage by the heat from the formulating process. The actives disperse rapidly into water and depending on formulation needs, they can be pre- dissolved in water prior to adding to the emulsion. The new complex will have moderate impacts on the formulation colour and odour at recommended use levels (2%-3%) and pH (3.0-6.5). Formulation studies done by BotanicalsPlus show the ingredients are stable and do not change colour or odour when submitted to standard cosmetic stability testing protocols. Examples of formulations that BotanicalsPlus and BioNap have developed can be found at the companies’ websites. Table 1 presents some the formulations that use the new complex as the principal active that have passed full stability testing protocols (30 day @ 50˚C and 3 freeze-thaw cycles) and are available immediately for consideration.
Conclusion
It can be easy to think that ideas for new cosmetic and therapeutic ingredients appear to pop out of the air in rapid succession. Every day seems to bring something new, something timely, something never seen before. This could not be farther from the truth. What this paper demonstrates is that development of new cosmetic ingredients can take years of research looking at various aspects of an ingredient’s benefits. Then, in the hands of skilled scientists and artisans, these individual ingredients can be further blended and optimised to give even more superior performance to the particular
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Table 1: Summary of BioNap and BotanicalsPlus formulations containing Skin Moon. Formula Name
BioNap Brightening Cream
BioNap Green Brightening Emulsion BotanicalsPlus Moon Light Radiance
extracts from which they are derived. Jeen is pleased to be able to work closely with our technical partners at BotanicalsPlus and with the very strong scientists at BioNap who have created a unique idea in the product called Skin Moon. Hopefully, readers will better appreciate that the science of skin care is exactly that, a science. It takes knowledge, time, and commitment to create ingredients that people come back to time and again for one simple reason – because they work.
PC
References 1 Bonina FP, Puglia C, Frasca G et al. Protective effects of a standardised red orange extract on air pollution-induced oxidative damage in traffic police officers. Nat Prod Res 2008; 22 (17): 1544-51.
2 Balestra C, Cimino F, Theunissen S et al. A red orange extract modulates the vascular response to a recreational dive: a pilot study on the effect of anthocyanins on the physiological consequences of scuba diving. Nat Prod Res 2016; 30 (18):2101-6.
3 Saija A, Tomaino A, Lo Cascio R, Rapisarda P, Dederen JC. In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo photoprotective effect of a red orange extract. Int J Cosmet Sci 1998; 20 (6): 331-42.
4 Morini F, Dusatti F, Bonina FP, Saija A, Ferro M. Iron-induced lipid peroxidation in human skin- derived cell lines: protection by a red orange extract. Altern Lab Anim 2000; 28 (3): 427-33 5 Cimino F, Cristani M, Saija A, Bonina FP, Virgili F.
Use Level 3%
3% 2.50% Code
PG 0103-18 GB 0405-18 J31-101C
Protective effects of a red orange extract on UVB-induced damage in human keratinocytes. Biofactors 2007; 30 (2): 129-38.
6 Cardile V, Frasca G, Rizza L, Rapisarda P, Bonina F. Anti-inflammatory effects of a red orange extract in human keratinocytes treated with interferon-gamma and histamine. Phytother Res 2010; 24 (3): 414-8.
7 Puglia C, Offerta A, Saija A, Trombetta D, Venera C. Protective effect of red orange extract supplementation against UV-induced skin damages: photoaging and solar lentigines. J Cosmet Dermatol 2014; 13 (2): 151-7.
8 Stefanucci A, Zengin G, Locatelli M et al. Impact of different geographical locations on varying profile of bioactives and associated functionalities of caper (Capparis spinosa L.). Food Chem Toxicol 2018; 118: 181-9.
9 Bonina F, Puglia C, Ventura D et al. In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effects of a lyophilized extract of Capparis spinosa L buds. J Cosmet Sci 2002; 53 (6): 321-3.
10 Trombetta D, Occhiuto F, Perri D, et al. Antiallergic and antihistaminic effect of two extracts of Capparis spinosa L. flowering buds. Phytother Res. 2005;19(1):29-33.
11 Arena A, Bisignano G, Pavone B et al. Antiviral and immunomodulatory effect of a lyophilized extract of Capparis spinosa L. buds. Phytother Res 2008; 22 (3): 313-7.
12 Han M, Bae JS, Ban JJ, Shin HS, Lee DH, Chung JH. Black rice (Oryza sativa L.) extract modulates ultraviolet-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinases and procollagen in a skin cell model. Int J Mol Med 2018; 41 (5): 3073-80.
13 de Bock M, Eric TB, Derraik JGB, Henderson HV, Hofman PL, Cutfield WS. Human absorption and metabolism of oleuropein and hydroxytyrosol ingested as olive (Olea europaea L.) leaf extract. Mol Nut Food Res 2013; 57 (11): 2079-85.
14 D’Angelo S, Ingrosso D, Migliardi V, Sorrentino A, Donnarumma G, Baroni A et al. Hydroxytyrosol, a natural antioxidant from olive oil, prevents protein damage induced by long- wave ultraviolet radiation in melanoma cells. Free Radic Biol Med 2005; 38 (7): 908-19. 15 Gruber JV, Holtz R. Examining the impact of skin lighteners in vitro. Oxid Med Cell Longev 2013; 2013: 1-7.
16 Rizza L, Bonina C, Frasca G, Puglia C. Skin- whitening effects of Mediterranean herbal extracts by in vitro and in vivo models. J Cosmet Sci 2012; 63 (5): 311-20.
Figure 5: Image of BioNap’s Skin Moon Powdered Extract.
17 Rizza L, D’Agostino A, Girlando A, Puglia C. Evaluation of the effect of topical agents on radiation-induced skin disease by reflectance spectrophotometry. J Pharm Pharmacol 2010; 62 (6): 779-85.
September 2018
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