62 HAIR STYLING However, occasionally a natural hair care
formulator might even resort to that old favourite: the bi-phase formulation. Salt sprays are well-loved favourites on the market but can dry out the hair. In natural salt spray formulas, you work with a water base and by incorporating a secondary oil phase you give your customer the option to create that sun-kissed beach look while not drying out their locks. Bi-phase products can be very pleasing aesthetically especially if you use colourful botanical oils which will sit on top of the water phase. To activate the product, the customer simply needs to shake the bottle and apply the salt spray onto the hair.
2. Styling mousse Styling mousses are used to hold the hair in shape, give the hair volume, make the hair more manageable, protect and condition the hair and prepare the hair for further styling. When formulating a styling mousse, you must first decide what its overall function is going to be – will it give the hair body and volume, will it help define curls and waves, will it boost your hair styling products and protect the hair from heat? If you are formulating a styling mousse to give the hair volume, you may choose to incorporate natural gums to give the hair hold. If you want your styling mousse to help define curls and waves, it is a good idea to incorporate natural silicone alternatives or oils to help tame any frizz and help define the hair. If you want to design the styling mousse to protect your hair then a natural silicone alternative is a great ingredient to use. We do not recommend adding heavy oils to a natural styling mousse or it can make the hair look greasy. Moreover, since this is a water-based product with only a low percentage of surfactants, formulators face the challenge of solubilising a small amount of oils in their formula, but clever planning, understanding your ingredients and extensive testing can overcome this hurdle.
Natural styling mousses are typically
water-based formulations that use distilled water or hydrosol (or a mix of the two). They also need to incorporate low percentages of surfactants in order to achieve a mousse consistency, as well as anti-static agents such as betaines. When formulating a natural styling mousse, we recommend using foamer bottles in order to achieve a thick, rich foam, while only requiring small amounts of surfactants in the formulation.
3. Hair gel Gels are polymer or gum-based aqueous formulations which hold the hair in shape and give it a ‘wet’ look. Some types of gel will have a stronger hold than others and give the hair a stiff feel. Gel can be used to
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Styling mousse.
slick back the hair or to give it spikes. The market contains gels for many
different types of styling – lightweight gels, hard holding gels, strong hair ‘glue’ or hair ‘cement’, sculpting gels, concentrated gels, or hair shapers. The main difference between all these gels will be the amount of thickener used. The stronger you want your natural gel to be and the more ‘hold’ you want it to offer, the more thickeners you will need to add to the formulation. But you need to remember that not all natural thickeners will impart hold to the hair, so it is not possible to make a highly viscous gum with xanthan gum and expect it to impart rock solid sculpting properties to the hair. Natural hair gels are water- or hydrosol-
based formulations that incorporate natural gums to control the product’s viscosity. Although most natural gums will not be able to impart the hold required for a hair gel, carrageenan or cellulose gum tend to work well.
4. Smoothing serum
When you want your hair to have shine and to be smoothed down, a serum is your best friend. Synthetic serums are based on silicones which coat the surface of our hair and temporarily fill the gaps on our hair cuticle to repair any damage. When formulating natural hair care, we do not use synthetic silicones. Instead, we use natural silicone alternatives or very light plant oils. Serums prevent your hair from getting tangled, give your hair shine and softness and protect the hair strand from external damage – including heat. The popularity of straightening and curling irons has created a sizable market for heat protection formulations. When formulating natural serums, the biggest challenge for the formulator is finding suitable silicone alternatives. We recommend looking into ingredients such
as isoamyl laurate, as well as lightweight oils. It is important to note that oils high in polyunsaturated fatty acids are more likely to coat the outside of the hair and are less likely to penetrate the hair strand, so will be more suitable for natural smoothing serums.
5. Sculpting clay
Sculpting clays contain a small percentage of clay which is left to set hard in the hair and give the hair texture, definition and hold. Due to the use of clay, this product will look matte on the hair and will not impart shininess. The clay itself can leave a residue in the hair. Styling clays are great for short, choppy hair styles which need a contoured matte finish. As any natural cosmetic formulator will
know, working with clays can be extremely challenging from a preservation perspective. For that reason we recommend steering clear of incorporating water in any natural sculpting clay formulation and instead working with an anhydrous base.
The big challenge in working with an
anhydrous base will be creating a formulation that does not feel greasy on the hair, which is why any butters, waxes and oils need to be chosen with their specific texture in mind. Finally, a word of warning - there are
many different types of clays which you can use in your sculpting clay formulations and you will need to consider the strong colours imparted by certain clays when you are designing your sculpting clay. Red or pink clays also wash out in bright red colours (and stain everything!) so you should always warn your customer if your formulation incorporates brightly coloured clays.
6. Styling putty or wax
A natural styling wax is – as the name suggests – made with a wax, such as beeswax or candelilla wax. The most common wax is
September 2018
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