32 SKIN CARE
examining the extracts of the red orange. One interesting study, for example, was published in Natural Product Research in 2008 examining the protective benefits of the red orange extracts taken orally on policemen who were working traffic stops.1 This test group demonstrated enhanced frequency of expression of certain well- established oxidative stress markers due to the pollution and sunlight they were regularly exposed to and it was shown that supplementation into the diet with the red orange extract, taken for one month, statistically reduced the frequency of sister chromatide exchanges (SCEs), clinically demonstrating a protective effect against conditions capable of producing oxidative DNA damage as measured by this oxidative marker. Another equally interesting study was undertaken and published in the same journal in 2016 examining the benefits of similar extracts on scuba divers.2
This work
demonstrated that oral supplements of the extract improved hematocrit, body water distribution, flow-mediated dilation (FMD), and heart function in the scuba divers ingesting the extract. These kinds of innovative clinical studies are typical of the unique work that the University conducts to support the beneficial claims for the BioNap extracts.
The University of Catania has published studies looking at the skin and topical benefits of the red orange extracts in five studies undertaken between 1998 and 2014.3–7
This collection of published
studies examined the antioxidative, anti- inflammatory, and photoageing protective benefits of the red orange extracts, firmly demonstrating that the extracts have potential as potent, protective, and curative skin care ingredients.
The science supporting Capparis spinosaFruit Extract Capparis spinosa is more frequently referred to as Flinders rose and the capers (flower buds) are a source of numerous beneficial compounds (Fig 2).8
The
University of Catania and BioNap recognised the nutritional advantages of this extract and so the University of Catania has tested topical applications and examined the extract for its unique benefits in inflammation, allergy suppression, and its antioxidant benefits in skin care.9–11 The caper bud extract was principally tested for its ability to protect human skin in vivo against UVB-induced erythema and irritation.9
Oryza sativa(Rice) Extract and Olea europaea(Olive) Leaf Extract Oryza sativa (rice) is a well-known source of skin bioactives, which are produced by the long sun exposure rice has during its growing season. A unique variety of black
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Figure 2: Capparis spinosa caper buds and flower.
rice, known as Venere rice, was used to create the rice extract employed in Skin Moon (now referred to as ‘the new complex’).12
Black rice extracts have been
shown to have a beneficial effect on UV-irradiated skin cells, helping to reduce the presence of reactive oxygen species and helping to reduce the impacts of photoageing on skin. Olive leaf extract, a product of
commercial olive fruit harvesting, is an excellent source of hydroxytyrosol, a well- known antioxidant found in significant quantities in olive fruit and olive leaf extracts.13
to have protective effects against UVA radiation.14
both ingredients for nutritional purposes and the overlap of these interesting products in skin care was well supported with historical clinical studies.
Development and testing of the new complex
Skin pigmentation has its principal basis in the genetics of a person’s skin. However, UV radiation (UVA, UVB) has well- established impacts on the health and colour of the skin.15
The link between
UV radiation exposure and the tanning response is attractive to people from a visual perspective but is a source of DNA damage, photoageing responses, and results in the eventual darkening of the skin to mitigate the detrimental impacts of the sun. For this reason, BioNap and BotanicalsPlus recognised that, to address the factors that impact skin pigmentation
and tone, a multi-pronged approach that addresses various pigment forming pathways was a unique way to control skin tone and radiance. Addressing the direct impacts of UVA and UVB radiation through natural extracts and the mechanisms by which the skin creates melanin, using naturally-sourced ingredients, was a logical way to control and enhance skin pigment benefits.
The new complex was developed as a
Hydroxytyrosol has been shown BioNap has been developing
blend of red orange, caper bud, olive leaf, and black rice extracts. Working first to optimise the blend ratios, the ingredients were combined with a heat-stable polysaccharide encapsulation of the blend, allowing BioNap to offer the product as a dry powder. The polysaccharide encapsulant helps protect the active ingredients in the extracts during the brief drying process which can expose the extracts to rapid heat contact. Bringing the actives together quickly into a dried powder form allows the creation of a powdered extract that does not require the need for addition of preservatives. The new complex was tested via in vitro
and in vivo techniques at the University of Catania to optimise concentrations of the various actives.16
The investigators first
examined the individual extracts against purified kojic acid and hydroquinone for optimum concentrations of each extract that worked well against these two established skin pigment control benchmarks. Then, by carefully blending the four ingredients together and again optimising through testing, the company
September 2018
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