EYE AREA CARE 87
enhance and improve communication between skin stem cells and fibroblasts that result
modifications and high activity Skin around the eyes is 1/10 thinner and
is more exposed to external aggressors and free radicals due to UV radiation or pollutants that can affect protein structure and functions. One of the most general indicators of oxidative damage is protein carbonylation and the main proteolytic system involved in the removal of damaged proteins is the Ubiquitin Proteasome System (UPS). Scelleye from Lipotrue contains plant- Insulin-like Growth Factor-1 (plant-IGF1), a protein able to restore the activity of the skin basal layers, as well as to activate the proteasome and decrease carbonylation, for an effective clearance of damaged proteins In a previous issue of Personal Care, Scelleye was shown to stimulate proteasome activity, helping to clear and protect the skin from the accumulation of cell damaged proteins due to free radicals that can be caused by radiation, pollution or internal metabolism. Furthermore, Scelleye helped to soothe dark circles and regenerate and redensify the skin, both in vivo and ex vivo, which translated to a notable reduction in depth, volume and overall crow’s feet in vivo. Scelleye was shown to be a key multifunctional detoxifying ingredient for the development of future eye contour cosmetics covering multiple eye concerns. Orchistem from Provital is created from plant stem cells from a rare orchid native to Japan: Calanthe discolour. Its name derives from the Greek “kalos” that means beauty. Orchistem are orchid stem cells that
September 2018
in a global rejuvenating effect. In particular restoring firmness and elasticity; face shape redefinition and contouring; lifting the upper eyelids to open the eyes. Plant stem cells are a sustainable source
that protects biodiversity, and are not subject to seasonal variations and are entirely traceable. In an in vivo study, Orchistem was shown
to increase firmness by 17% vs placebo and elasticity by 10% after 56 days. Also measured was an increased glow by 13.7% after 56 days versus placebo. Slimexir from Rahn with its sophisticated active ingredients directly fights the cause of dark circles and puffiness, the result of fat bulging. For most of us, starting the day with coffee or tea is part of our daily mantra. Xanthines such as caffeine serve as mild stimulants increasing alertness in the central nervous system and warding off sleepiness. These molecules have been found to act as nonselective adenosine receptor agonists and as competitive nonselective phosphodiesterase inhibitors leading to the activation of lipolysis. Consequently, with the idea of perking up the tissue and triggering fat decomposition, Rahn has, in X-Melt (INCI: Xanthine), combined different xanthines in the best possible manner to achieve the optimal synergistic effect, outperforming the effect of caffeine alone. Furthermore, artichoke extract (INCI: Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract) supports X-Melt’s lipolysis effect and stimulates the circulation and drainage, successfully removing the products of fat breakdown. Sagging skin caused by volume reduction is effectively prevented by levan (INCI: Fructan). Its exceptional cosmetic
properties firm and strengthen the skin surface, resulting in irregularities appearing less often. Applying Slimexir improves the appearance of the skin tremendously. It acts on all three levels, namely: fat decomposition, lymphatic drainage and skin firmness.
The skin in the eye contour area is very thin and fragile and ages more quickly, requiring particular care and specific treatment. Dark circles and bags, which are sometimes hereditary, appear in the suborbital area. Exacerbated by fatigue, stress and lifestyle, they are partly related to poor blood circulation. To remedy and improve skin microcirculation, Silab recommends Actiflow. An active ingredient produced from yeast, Actiflow boosts the resilience of the capillary vessels due to its vitamin PP content, promoting neovascularisation and stimulating the synthesis of a vascular growth factor: the VEGF. Actiflow therefore improves blood
circulation in the eye contour area, alleviates vascular congestion and fades dark circles and bags under the eyes. Indeed, Actiflow leads to a significant increase in parameter L*, representing lightness of the skin. It also attenuates the colour of dark circles and tends to reduce colour differences between dark circles and the rest of the face. As a result, the eye contour area appears more relaxed and the complexion is more even.
Recognised by 75% of users as an anti-
dark circle active ingredient, Actiflow is a patented active ingredient (INCI name: Saccharomyces cerevisiae Extract) that can be used in all eye contour products. Available in aqueous solution (recommended amount: 2% to 4%), it is compliant with international cosmetic
PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112