HAIR STYLING 63
beeswax, but there are a number of innovative, interesting vegan waxes on the market which are plant-based. Examples include carnauba wax, berry wax, myrica fruit wax, rice bran wax or sunflower wax. A natural styling wax is a solid
formulation which is similar to styling gel in how it works on the hair. A styling wax can also contain conditioning properties which reduce hair damage and coat the hair strand to make it pliable. A styling wax is great for adding texture and volume to the hair but does not provide stiffness. It has less shininess to it than a styling gel, but are still often used to impart shininess. A wax can leave a residue in the hair and is quite hard to wash out. When formulating a natural hair wax, we typically work with an anhydrous base that contains a wax and butter base. Similar to the sculpting clay, a natural hair care formulator has to ensure that the product does not leave a greasy residue on the hair by working with ‘drier’ ingredients. If you want your natural hair wax to impart a degree of shininess, then you will need to source natural silicone alternatives to incorporate into the formulation.
7. Hair tonic
Hair tonics or perfumes impart freshness and a pleasant fragrance to the hair throughout
the day. Do not not forget that the total area of our hair can be as big as the carpet on the floor! For that reason, a hair tonic can be distributed across a far biggest surface area than a perfume on the body and can therefore impart more fragrance. If your customer chooses not to wash their hair on a regular basis, then a hair tonic can freshen up the hair and provide a pleasant fragrance to mask any musky odours from sebum on the scalp. Hair tonics can also incorporate anti-static agents to help with frizz. A natural hair tonic formulation will be
water-based but will contain fragrance in the form of essential oils. The challenges are significant when making this type of formulation because you have to balance the dermal limits of essential oils on the scalp, together with the need to achieve a pleasant fragrance. Furthermore, effective natural solubilisers are not always easy to find but are a necessity for any water-based natural hair tonic.
Consumer demands for natural hair styling Consumers want their hair styling products to have long-lasting effects. They want to be able to see their hair style stay in shape for a long period of time - at least throughout the day. If you look at the marketing claims made by many styling
products on the market, you will see terminology such as ‘hi-hold’, ‘extreme hold’ or ’24 hour hold’. However, this terminology does not only apply to styling or volumising products. You will also find that smoothing formulations contain claims relating to time and speed. Claims such as ’10 minute stimulating’, ‘overnight’, or ‘quick smoothing’ can be found all throughout the industry.
The main challenge for the natural hair
care formulator will be delivering effective hair styling formulations that hold, while still incorporating the botanical ingredients that modern consumers are looking for. Nonetheless, there are enormous opportunities out there for brands who want to tap into an audience that is primed and ready to use natural formulations to style their hair. The natural hair care industry is still in its infancy and we look forward to seeing brands create formulations that offer style, hold, texture and nourishment in equal doses.
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Note: Formula Botanica is an award-winning organic cosmetic science school. The accredited online school has taught thousands of cosmetic formulators in 130+ countries how to make safe, stable and sellable skin care and hair care using natural ingredients. Formula Botanica teaches its online Diploma in Organic Haircare Formulation, which covers natural cleansing, conditioning and styling formulations. Visit
https://formulabotanica.com/sample- class to sign up for a free class
September 2018
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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