102 SKIN CARE
for optimised sequences both at the level of their bioavailability and their effectiveness.
New peptide development is done by making specific modifications on known initial sequences and after having performed alanin and glycin scans, polarity studies and acid / base studies (among others). The aim is to obtain the best activity / structure relationship possible. Sederma’s Laboratory of Prospective and Applied Chemistry found that some collagen chains in our body are crosslinked through cyclic molecules conversely to skin collagens. In addition, mature collagens contain cross-linked fibres. From these observations 120 peptides bearing cyclic structures were designed and screened to develop a new anti-ageing peptide with both increased bioavailability and efficiency. Once the optimum sequence was identified, a full range of studies were conducted to demonstrate the effectiveness of this new peptide on the constituent molecules of the dermis and its anti-wrinkle action. In vitro tests were carried out on several complementary biological models, all of human origin: fibroblasts of the dermis, equivalent skin and skin explants resulting from cosmetic surgery. Different methods were used like ELISA, immunocytology and immunohistology studies. Transcriptomic studies were also conducted with the qRT- PCR (Real-Time Quantitative Reverse Transcription Polymerase Chain Reaction) method that allows the identification and evaluation of messenger RNA (mRNA) amounts produced by cell genes to produce specific proteins. And finally, proteomic study by Liquid Chromatography Coupled Tandem Mass Spectrometry analysis (LC-MS/MS) was performed. This very powerful technique makes it possible to evaluate at the same time several hundred proteins present in the same sample and to compare the results with control cases.
Clinical studies were also carried out on
three different panels, one consisted of male volunteers, to evaluate the new peptide efficacy versus placebo. Deep wrinkles like frown lines, marionette lines, nasogenian fold, and crow’s feet wrinkle were targeted. The volunteers applied a cream containing 2% of the new active peptide twice daily for 6 weeks against placebo. Fringe projection coupled or not to fingerprint analysis were used. The first panel consisted of 34 women (mean age: 64 years, 45-76 years), presenting visible marionette lines, frown lines, nasogenian fold and crow’s feet wrinkles. The second panel consisted of 30 women (mean age: 58 years, 45-75 years), with visible frown lines. The third study was carried out on a panel composed of 20 men of mean age 59 years (46-68 years), with
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Collagen - I Placebo
New peptide
Collagen - VI Placebo
New peptide
Figure 2: Variation of mature collagen-I and -VI fibre productions by dermal fibroblasts in the presence of the new peptide (eq. 1.4%) (x 200). Immunocytology.
wrinkles that were clearly visible at the level of the crow’s feet. Application of treatment creams were banned 15 days before the first appointment and throughout the study period. In addition, exposures to the sun or UV were forbidden one month before the first appointment and during the study. Moreover, the male panellists were asked not to shave their beard and moustache on the morning of the appointment.
A unique action on the three different vertical lines Sederma offers a totally innovative peptide thanks to its unique addition of a cyclic structure to its lateral chain. Matrixyl® Morphomics™ is a novel Matrikine which mechanism of action was elucidated using the powerful ‘Proteomics of Youth™’ technology. The qRT-PCR method showed the activation of genes (longevigenes™) acting on the production of structural and functional elements of the skin. These proteins were clearly identified thanks to a proteomic study conducted by LC-MS/MS: ‘Proteomics of Youth’. Additional tests confirmed these results and dose-dependent effects. The results of these series of tests, complementary to one another, showed that this new peptide stimulated the production of collagen by cells in solution (Elisa: collagen-I: +54% at eq. 1.4% and +93% at
eq. 2%; collagen-IV: +79% at eq. 1.4% and +182% at eq. 2%, all p<0.01) as well as the mature collagens around the cells (immunocytochemistry: mature collagen-I: +38% at eq. 0.6%; p<0.02 and +291% at eq. 1.4%; p<0.01). Interestingly, in addition to the increase in the quantity of collagens and their quality, there was an increase in the production of fibronectin (Elisa: +47% at eq. 1% and + 61% at eq. 14%; p<0.01) and collagen-VI (immunocytochemistry: +27% at eq. 1.4% and +45% at eq. 2%; p<0.01), two known proteins architecting the collagen network. Indeed, without one or the other, the dermis is less organised and the formation of mature collagen highly compromised. Cells receive signals either in the form of molecules or in the form of tensions that will trigger protein production. To function, these tensions require strong anchor points, binding collagens and fibronectin to intracellular actin. Talin, α-actinin and integrins are part of these anchor structures of actin. Immunocytology and immunohistology test results showed that the new peptide greatly improves cross- talking elements between internal cytoskeleton and the extra-cellular matrix (ECM) (actin: +187% and cofilin: +446% at eq. 1%; p<0.01%). Thus, the cell can better answer to the external information and effectively produce matrix molecules. Other tests were conducted and
September 2018
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