28 ANTI-AGEING CONFERENCE
Cigarette smoke can be used in vivo and can be used to successfully assess anti- pollution/anti-polluageing claims. Following on from the polluageing discussion, Jessen Curpen of Mauritian testing company CIDP took the stage to discuss cutaneous ageing as a result of pollution. Jessen presented an overview of the innovative methodologies used by CIDP to assess the effect of pollution on skin using the company’s system that allows in vitro controlled exposure to pollutants (O3, cigarette smoke, dust) mimicking pollution. In vitro anti-pollution assays are performed on cell and tissue models (explants and 3D RHE).
A range of methods for the evaluation of anti-pollution effects on skin was also detailed with both indoor and outdoor study designs to measure hydration, barrier function, pigmentation and radiance, complexion homogeneity, micro-relief and elasticity. In an example study, Jessen Curpen showed that pollutants cause oxidative stress, skin inflammation and skin ageing.
Day 2
The second day of the conference, which was attended by Personal Care magazine, began with a detailed look at the phenomenon of skin becoming ‘used’ to a particular stimulus over a period of time, necessitating a rotational treatment regimen. Lisa DiNatale from Avon. This corresponds with Avon consumer research that showed that up to 78% of women believe that their anti-ageing products “stop working over time”. Dr Ardeshir Bayat of University of Manchester presented the results of tests they had conducted on behalf of Avon that identified phytol and retinol as potential rotational partners. A one-year clinical study showed the efficacy of this new concept. Facial wrinkles continued to improve to the end of the study along with pigmentation, clarity, texture and sagging. The rotational system outperformed retinol on its own. At the end of the presentation, questions from the audience included: “What timeframe is required for a good clinical study?” Dr Bayat responded by saying it depends on your primary aim, but in general a study should really be a minimum of 6 months to a year in order to ensure good quality data. Other input from the knowledgeable attendees included the statement that as well as cells getting used to a certain stimulus, there is also a psychological effect involved.
The next presentation came from Susanne Fabre PhD of Oriflame. Her analysis of ‘network pharmacognosy’ and its ability to accelerate discovery of natural actives began with an overview of what
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
defines network pharmacognosy. By combining network pharmacology (polypharmacology, network science and systems biology) with phytochemistry and high throughput screening, it is possible to develop strong performing natural active ingredients to improve skin health. An example was given of the search for a natural ingredient that boosts collagen which involved determining 159 proteins, 2,458 relationships and 15,000 literature articles. Selection of the candidate target was done through network analysis. The presentation then looked at sourcing and extraction of the plant material, candidate extract profiling and the merging of biological and chemical networks. Network pharmacognosy creates the following pathway: identification of the right anti- ageing target; finding the right natural ingredient and sustainable source; confirmation of activity in vitro; translation to clinically proven efficacy. The process was shown to reduce risk in the early developmental stages as well as reducing development time and cost. Dr Katerina Steventon’s presentation focused on the importance of touch in skin care. Although it is something that
everyone notices and experiences every time they apply a skin care product, it perhaps does not get the attention it deserves from the industry, but here Dr Steventon presented a detailed exploration of touch and its significance. The presentation revealed that touch can potentially enhance the efficacy of products as well as itself improve the health of skin. Touch and massage can also alleviate anxiety and help to treat depression. Touch can physically remove dirt particles and dead skin while also increasing blood flow, and providing lymphatic drainage through mechanical stimulation. The physical stimulation also releases wellbeing hormones (e.g. oxytocin). There is a strong link between the brain and the skin (they both develop from ectoderm in the embryo), and so we need to pay more attention to the benefit healthy skin can have on mental wellbeing. Dr Steventon stated that people with poor skin condition are more susceptible to mental illness and that things that touch our skin can have an unconscious impact on wellbeing. Touch signals are transmitted from specialised sensors (mechanoreceptors or nociceptors) through molecules to the brain by differently myelinated fibres. Two aspects of sensory experience can be perceived: objective (cold/warm, rough/smooth), and emotional (pain/pleasure).
Dr Steventon then described the
different types of touch and how fast and slow/ soft and hard motions can have different effects and how different types of massage are conducted in different regions of the world. Light touch stimulates the reward system and enhances arousal and alertness while medium touch stimulates
September 2018
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