ANTI-AGEING CONFERENCE 29
the parasympathetic system, alleviating stress and affecting levels of serotonin and cortisol. This can all have an impact on skin health and potentially the efficacy/penetration of formulated products.
Dr Chris Gummer (Cider Solutions Ltd) followed with his analysis of the shrinking world of anti-ageing skin care claims. However, some companies are not always following the letter of the law with their claims. Terms such as “wrinkle zapping” and claiming to “restructure” the skin are out of bounds yet still appear in advertisements.
Dr Gummer gave an example of how one company used scientific reports in the literature to write efficacy claims which would not have been allowable on pack. The opening section of the presentation essentially reinforced the fact that no matter how good the product is, it is not permissible to make medical claims. The next point raised was the concept of ‘verification’ as required by the Advertising Standards Authority in the UK. If an advertisement makes a comparative claim, it must also show where the data has been derived. Comparative claims include statements such as: “Better than the leading…”; “Compared to a £100 cream”; “Unsurpassed performance”; “The most effective…”
“Up to” claims are frequently used in advertising, but in the UK 10% of the sample group need to reach the claimed level, and the rest must get some benefit. In the US, at least 50% must achieve the claimed level.
Dr Gummer then looked at the rules on anti-ageing supplements (check EFSA website) and devices before looking into the future of anti-ageing claims. We are already witnessing a more active and enquiring consumer, and this will develop further. Therefore there is increased need for validation and ensuring scientific information is presented as unambiguously as possible.
The skin microbiome has been a
prominent feature of the skin care industry over the past couple of years. Next on the stage were Kit Wallen-Russell and Nick Wallen of skin care company JooMo who discussed in a lively fashion how a natural approach can solve a ‘skin allergy epidemic’ using the power of the skin microbiome. Their intention was to enable people to
return their skin back to perfect ‘caveman’ skin with a rich microbial diversity. Kit Wallen-Russell described what they are trying to do by presenting an anology of Yellowstone Park in the US. When the numbers of wolves was decreased, elk numbers rose and they developed pathogenic behaviour, overgrazing the area which caused the overall health of
September 2018
Yellowstone to drop. The duo then presented the findings of studies that show how their product was able to increase the level of microbiome diversity compared to leading natural and synthetic brands, which they see as an important requirement of the ‘third wave’ of cosmetics.
Dr Karl Lintner followed with a discussion on blue light, another trend of recent times. The rate of change in the industry with new trends has speeded up incredibly since 2000. Dr Lintner suggested we are not giving each technology enough time to really get the most out of it, but here we are in 2018 with pollution, blue light, and microbiome each vying for attention.
It would be understandable if consumers
were a little confused about blue light at the moment. It has been marketed as a treatment for acne, yet is now being advertised as potentially harmful to the skin. Dr Lintner then looked at what blue light is and where it lies on the spectrum before analysing some of the studies that have been conducted on the effects of blue light radiation. When taking a detailed look at the studies that suggest damage to skin caused by blue light emitted by electronic devices, there appears to be a lack of consideration of real-world conditions. For instance in one study on an iPad, the device was held at a distance of 1 cm from the skin for 1 hour. This does not replicate real world conditions and also does not take into account natural skin repair mechanisms. Dr Lintner also highlighted some
interesting research into light sensors within the skin along with how ambient light affects sleep quality. Ultimately, it is important to protect against other wavelengths of light too, and the best anti-ageing cream is still a sunscreen.
On the subject of sunscreens, Dr Emilio Simeone of siHealth presented on his company’s innovative mobile phone App which uses GPS location to provide the user with an accurate measurement of sunlight exposure and guide to applying the right amount of sunscreen to prevent burning. There are dedicated wearable UV
sensors on the market, but they do have an inherent disadvantage in that if they are facing away from the sun, shielded by the wearer or their clothes, they will give an incorrect reading. In order to be reasonably accurate the sensor also needs to be periodically calibrated. Using satellite data removes these issues. The App from siHealth presents the satellite data in four ways: UV-B & UV-A (erythema); UV-B & UV-A (vitamin D); UV-A (photoageing); VIS + IR- (photoageing). It also offers sun exposure planning and monitoring for vitamin D; multispectral photoageing effects monitoring, support for sunscreen product quantity application using user’s biometrics, and warnings for reapplication.
Closing the summit, Steve Barton of Skin Thinking looked into the future of skin and ageing to imagine how things will look in 2028. This thought-provoking presentation revealed there is a considerable mismatch between how consumers and professionals view skin ageing, and how the factors that have led to this might change in the future. Perhaps the most significant difference between the groups is with the concept of diet as a key anti-ageing strategy. Of course, we know that diet has some impact, but it is given far more prominence by consumers, but then 87% of British women go to their friends for beauty advice. Steve Barton believes the historical focus on beauty may be changing to a focus on ‘health’, but that all the knowledge produced by personal care professionals is not being adequately communicated to the right consumers. In the future, technology will inevitably change the way the industry works, but it is something of a lottery which technologies will play a part and which might instead fizzle out. Nanobots, 3D printing, gene editing, graphene – all could contribute, but it is just as likely that none will. However, combining technologies; or using elements, increases the chance of success. Steve Barton ended by saying that it is not just about these ‘big’ technologies, rather information and communication will play just as big a role in the future of skin care.
Conclusion To close the conference, chairman Dr Jack Ferguson of Skinnovation Ltd, said: “I’m leaving here today certainly with more knowledge than I came in with two days ago. I feel more informed about the subject of anti-ageing and the science around it.” The event was certainly successful in putting forward new ideas about skin ageing and presenting them in an entertaining and engaging way. Look out for information regarding the next Anti- Ageing Skin Care Conference from Summit Events in Personal Care.
PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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