EYE AREA CARE 89
The secret of beautiful eyes investigated
n Madina Sautova, Dr Mathias Gempeler – DSM, Switzerland
The expression of the eyes determines the impression of someone’s face. For the appearance, many skin characteristics play a role. Low skin density, weak hydrolipid film, lack of drainage function and strong muscular stress are the main factors. The facial area around the eyes consists of upper and lower eyelid. Between both lids is the palpebral fissure. The skin of the eyelids and around the eyes is different compared to facial or body skin. It is thinner, more sensitive and can dry out easily. The muscles around the eyes regularly open and close the eyelid. This blinking protects and moistens the eye. In addition, these muscles are responsible for mimic and expression of the eye region. All eye muscles are surrounded by connective tissue with different structure. Part of this surrounding tissue consists of collagen and elastic fibres, which form only a delicate connective tissue sheath. In this part of the face, there are only few sebaceous and sweat glands resulting in a weak hydrolipid film. The lack of drainage function can lead to puffiness and bags under the eyes. This swelling recedes when the tissue fluid is removed via the lymphatic and blood streams. The eye region or periorbital area is very
a
* p<0.05 compared to untreated cells **p<0.001 compared to untreated cells
100 80 60 40
+27% *
20 +8% 0 6 µm 12 µm 25 µm Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH
Figure 1: A) Dose dependent collagen stimulation by Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH, B) The expression of cytokines and MMPs after chemically induced (PMA) stress (24 h) in normal human keratinocytes. Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH protects cells from collagen network degradation.
September 2018 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 10ng/ml +36%
+76% **
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
Control 12ng/ml TGF-ß
sensitive. Traces of fatigue, exhaustion, stress, ageing and incorrect skin care show quickly in this region, for example as wrinkles and fine lines, dark circles, puffiness. Over time the area appears tired, less energetic and ageing effects show. The periorbital region needs special skin care to work against these symptoms. Eye care products are the second most
sold products on the cosmetic market, after facial day creams. In the last decade the eye care product market grew by 300% and is still growing.1
Today, consumers request
promising, reliable eye care products with rapid and sustained skin effects. Because of the big market and the consumers’ demand cosmetic manufacturers develop eye care products with a higher amount of active or specialty ingredients. With the development of new ingredients and ingredient combinations, the industry always brings more effective eye care products to the market. There are some well-known active
ingredients on the market with good study results for eye care treatment. Vitamin B5, panthenol, caffeine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide- 7, palmitoyl oligopeptide, and hyaluronic acid are only a few eye care actives. These ingredients are the basis of almost any eye
b n MMP1 n TNFa n MMP3 n IL8 * p<0.01 compared to untreated cells
care product, having both moisturising and anti-ageing properties.
Most market studies show that customers demand that eye skin care products provide fast results to help them feel and look less tired and more energetic. Common expectations are: reduction of wrinkles, fine lines and dark circles, puffiness, as well as providing anti-ageing effects.
One agent alone is not able to work against all these described outcomes. To obtain the best effect on the periorbital area most eye care products are combinations of several effective ingredients.
DSM Nutritional Products has developed a 4-in-1 blend composition (patent pending) for the treatment of two main areas around the eye. For the development of this blend several aspects, such as cost and ease of manufacturing and formulation as well as product benefits and performance, were taken into account. The blend (Trade name: Syn-Eye) consists of a synthetic small molecular tripeptide Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH, a specific micro algae extract (Dunaliella salina), panthenol and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. While every single ingredient is proven
Normal level * * * * 10µM Palm-Lys-Val-LysOH
Collagen level (%)
Fold increase in fluorescence intensity
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