52 HAIR TREATMENT
protects against colour fading and hair cuticle structural disruption caused by a spectrum of wavelengths encompassing UV, blue light and infrared. Furthermore, the lipophilic active protects and repairs from heat damage caused by numerous cycles of straightening irons preventing loss of tensile strength and shine.
The INCI for the lipophilic active is: Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract (and) Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecanol (and) Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract (and) Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Material and methods Human hair tresses (naturally blond or dark brown hair) with a length of 15 cm taken from the middle portion of the hair shaft were selected. After their reception, hair tresses were washed as follows: i) wetting for 10 seconds using tap water, ii) distributing 2 ml of a neutral shampoo all over the hair tress length, iii) rubbing the shampoo for 20 seconds, iv) rinsing tresses during 30 seconds using tap water, v) dabbing hair tresses with a paper towel and drying using a hair dryer (80°C for 10 minutes at a distance of 15 cm from the hair tress). When indicated, blond hair tresses were dyed with a red permanent dye commercially available (Cromakey-In containing 9% H2
O2 ). Hair tresses were
treated either with a hair mask lotion (25,000-28,000 cps) as is (placebo) or containing 2% of the lipophilic active. Red dyed hair tresses (n=5) were exposed to radiation using a Sun test CPS+ (Atlas Material Testing Technology, USA) solar simulator encompassing the UV, blue light and infrared wavelength spectrum. A radiation dose of 3600 KJ/m2
in 2-hour exposure periods of 1800 KJ/m2
was applied .
Natural dark brown hair tresses were submitted to thermal stress using 80 strokes of an iron straightener set at 230°C. The effect of the lipophilic active on the hair antioxidant capacity and its resistance to radiation was assessed using the Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP) assay. The FRAP assay uses the antioxidants in a biological system as reductive agent in a colorimetric method based on redox reactions.12
Reduction of ferric tripyridyl
triazine (Fe3+(TPTZ)2) complex to ferrous form (Fe2+) was monitored by measuring the change in absorption at 595 nm using a GDV Programmable MPT DV 990BV6 plate reader. A spectrophotomer/colorimeter CM- 700D (Konica Minolta) was used to assess the action of the lipophilic active on the radiation-induced colour fading. Red dyed hair tress colour was quantified based on the CIELAB colour space. The eye noticeable difference (END) between two colours was defined as the ∆E*ab
using the L* a* b* spectrophotometric parameters. A PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Figure 2. Actions of radiation (UVA/B) and heat on the chemical integrity, structure and architecture of the hair fibre.
900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
Baseline +45.8% *** +5% -16.1% * +37.9% ***
Treated n ActivoilTM
Treated + radiation Kerox-ProTM n Placebo
Figure 3: Antioxidant potential and resistance to radiation. Red dyed hair tresses either untreated (Baseline) or treated with a placebo or the same formulation containing the lipophilic active and used as is or exposed to radiation. Solubilised hair fibres were reacted in the FRAP assay. Values are averages of samples from 5 different tresses. *** p < 0.001; * p < 0.05 compared to baseline.
∆E*ab < 2.3 is the threshold below which
there is no END between two colours.13 Hair cuticle ultrastructure was
qualitatively analysed by means of Scanning Electronic Microscopy (SEM). Hair fibres were placed in a specific sample holder (stub) and fixed using a small quantity of adhesive. The observation was carried out using a SEM (Evo 40, Zeiss) set as follows:
extra high tension of 20.00 kV; working distance of 7.0-7.5 mm; magnification of 1.00 KX.
Hair shine was measured using a
spectrophotometer/colorimeter CM-700D (Konica Minolta). Total reflectance was measured based on directional and diffuse reflection with a Xenon lamp light source in a Ulbricht sphere. Total light reflectance
September 2018
µM Fe2+
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