SKIN CARE 103 Vol#6 T0 T6 weeks Vol#18 T0 T6 weeks
In order to evaluate this new peptide benefit on this type of expression lines that are difficult to treat, we tried an innovative approach. It is known that with age the skin marks more easily and keeps the imprint of the deformations that are applied to it. By pulling on the skin of the hands, it is observed that the return to normal is more or less long according to the age. We have asked volunteers to frown in a reproducible manner to mark their frown lines, and then, after measuring the volume thus formed, we looked at the return to normal as a function of time. The fringe projection technique was used; the return to the initial state was a 100% recovery. Statistical studies to compare products between them used unilateral tests on unpaired series. This original test allowed us to highlight the gain brought by the new peptide for the return to normal of the forehead skin after a constraint. It showed that the dynamism of the skin at this level was significantly better for the panel who applied the formulated peptide compared to the placebo: from +12% to +13%. This makes the wrinkles less visible for a longer time. With regards to the marionette lines,
Figure 3: Examples of volunteers with a visible reduction of the frown lines after use of 2% new peptide for 6 weeks.
confirmed the new peptide activity on several dermal proteins, results are not shown here but are available upon request. Clinical studies also confirmed these results and allowed us to validate the bioavailability of the formulated new peptide. Regarding the very difficult to reduce
frown lines, it was found that the application of the formulated new peptide resulted in a significant improvement after only 6 weeks. A decrease in the volume and circumference of the frown lines of
T0
respectively 9.5% (p <0.05) and 7.1% (p<0.05) was measured, while the application of the placebo caused only minimal and non-significant variations. The differences in effect between the product and the placebo were significant for these two parameters with p<0.05 and p<0.07. In addition, the overall roughness of the studied area was decreased by 5.8% (p<0.01) after application of the formulated peptide, whereas it was almost not modified with placebo. This difference was significant (p <0.07).
T1.5 months
results showed that the new peptide used at 2% for six weeks exerted a significant reduction in the volume and the circumference of these lines responsible for a sad expression on the face (reduction by 22.7% and 10.6%, p<0.01 compared to T0). These two parameters were also significantly lower compared to the placebo (p<0.08 and p<0.06). The results of the clinical tests clearly demonstrated the action of the new peptide on vertical lines and implied its good bioavailability. Results from other in vivo studies are not presented here but are available upon request.
Conclusion
The brand-new structure of this molecule confirms the discovery of a third generation of peptides offering multiple developments for cosmetic applications. Its unique structural assets and the visible results obtained on the three different vertical lines make this new peptide an innovative active ingredient that joins the Matrixyl range developed by Sederma and whose effectiveness is recognised worldwide.
PC
References 1 Maquart FX, Siméon A, Pasco S, Monboisse JC. Régulation de l’activité cellulaire par la matrice extracellulaire : le concept de Matrikines, Journal de la Société de Biologie 1999; 193(4): 423
Figure 4: Example of improvement of the marionette lines after use of the new peptide for 6 weeks. September 2018
2 Simeon A, Monier F, Emonard H, et al, Fibroblast-Cytokine-Extracellular Matrix Interactions in Wound Repair, Current Topics in Pathology 1999; 93: 95-101
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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