IFSCC CONGRESS 17
chronic exposure of human skin to ultraviolet (UVB and A) radiation, but that wavelengths beyond UV, e.g. in the visible and near infrared range contribute as well. In addition, population-based cohort studies have clearly shown that chronic exposure to selected air pollutants such as traffic-related particulate matter, soot, nitrogen oxide and ozone is associated with an increased manifestation of skin ageing traits, e.g. pigment spots or wrinkles. This presentation will review (i) the epidemiological evidence supporting these conclusions, (ii) mechanistic studies employing ex vivo and in vivo human skin models to study the potential cause/effect relationship between air pollution and skin ageing, (iii) and how such models can be used to identify cosmetic actives to effectively shield human skin against such threats. The presentation will also cover very recent studies which suggest that different environmental factors including distinct wavelengths present in solar radiation as well as defined air pollutants can influence each other and that this
September 2018
interaction is relevant for skin health, and that gene/environment interactions are critically involved in ageing of human skin.
Ethnics – Cosmetic around the World, Dr Frédéric Leroy, L’Oréal
Beauty is a universal quest. But its translation and its concrete demonstrations, and in particular cosmetic products, are diverse, and could vary strongly from one continent to another. Cosmetics, the science of the beauty, has always adapted itself to this diversity. Multiple factors explain these variations, among which we find the cultural differences between the different regions of the world, but also the specific needs linked to the ethnic origins of populations. Indeed, the skin and the hair are not uniform throughout the world. The curliness of hair, the early signs of skin ageing for example are linked to ethnicity, and it seems obvious that hair or skin care products adapted to every typology will be different. These local characteristics led to specific routines and very different cosmetic habits. We can believe that globalisation and the strong influence of certain models (Western,
Japanese) are going to drive a decrease of the differences and to a standardisation of cosmetics. But in fact that is not the case, as new specificities appear locally as for example the influence of the environment on the properties of hair and skin, and which requires the design of products specifically adapted to local problems.
If the cosmetics industry is now totally globalised, the range of cosmetic products will become more and more specific to local needs.
Delivery Systems – How Deep is Your Effect? Delivery Systems for Skin Penetration, Prof Samir Mitragotri, Harvard University
Delivery of actives into skin, in spite of its inherent advantages, is limited to low molecular weight drugs due to the barrier properties of stratum corneum. Stratum corneum allows penetration of only small and hydrophobic actives in necessary quantities. The emerging landscape of actives on the other hand comprises macromolecules such as proteins, peptides, antibodies and nucleic acids. Harvard
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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