HAIR STYLING 61
The seven types of natural hair styling products
n Lorraine Dallmeier, Timea Racz - Formula Botanica, UK
Styling products are added to your hair to temporarily change its shape, texture or feel or to hold a hairstyle in place. They are meant to reshape the hair as you want it, and simultaneously improve your hair’s volume, increase its shine, soften it, or stiffen it. Styling products can be applied to either wet or dry hair after cleaning and/or conditioning.
Depending on where you are in the world, hairstyles can differentiate people based on their age, marital status, gender or even social class. Societies go through different hair trends over time and styling products have always played an important role in shaping popular trends and choices. According to Mintel, styling products
represent 10%-15% of global annual hair care product launches. In line with trends seen in the shampoo and conditioner markets, consumers are also looking for organic alternatives to synthetic styling products. We are currently seeing an enormous opportunity to create and sell organic or natural styling products. It is very rare to find truly effective organic or natural hair styling formulations for sale in the global hair care market. It is even rarer to find natural styling formulations that target specific hair types. But what are natural hair styling products and how do we formulate them? In this article, we want to introduce you to the seven different types of natural styling formulations and discuss their texture and consistency in more detail.
Dual functionality for natural styling formulations Conventional hair styling products generally only seek to temporary change the hair’s shape or hold. However, when designing natural hair styling formulations, we want to encourage you to think wider than ‘just’ styling. Your natural styling formulations are left in contact with the hair and scalp for a long period of time, so a formulator has the opportunity to deliver active ingredients as
September 2018
well as offering styling properties. It is not a necessity to have your product
perform such a dual function, but in our experience most natural cosmetic formulators have come to this industry as part of wanting to impart botanical benefits to their customer’s hair and skin. You may want to consider how you can deliver those properties while still holding the hair in place. Our philosophy at Formula Botanica is that you can achieve both style and nourishment at the same time. You will need to fully consider the interaction between the base, active and functional ingredients in your formulation before choosing active ingredients, but you can theoretically use your styling products to carry botanical extracts, essential oils, plant lipids, hydrosols, and proteins. Your styling product can have the dual functionality of holding the hair in place while also nourishing the hair and scalp.
The seven types of natural hair styling formulations The personal care industry has typically focused on conventional hair styling formulation, in order to meet the requirements to impart hold, texture or volume, whilst leaving a pleasant feeling on the hair. We want to challenge the idea that natural styling formulations cannot meet
similar needs, by looking at seven types of popular natural hair styling formulation. Natural hair styling products can be oil- based, wax-based, water-based, gel-based or emulsion-based. Some styling products will hold the hair in place, others will provide gentle volume to the hair and yet others will smooth down the hair. Some styling products may impart beneficial properties to the hair and scalp, others will simply have the function of holding the hair in shape. There is no standard definition for what a
styling product must be. We hope to show you that there are many different ways to design natural styling formulations that can meet the requirements of your customers. As part of our overarching teaching philosophy, we have split natural hair styling formulations into three distinct categories: l Formulations for ‘holding’ the hair l Formulations for volumising hair l Formulations for smoothing hair We want to introduce you to seven types
of different natural hair styling formulations, which fall into these three categories.
1. Texturising mist
Hair spray is perhaps the best known styling product on the market. Hair sprays set the hair hard and allow your customer to create big swept-up hairstyles with a strong hold. They also give some shine to the hair. However, as any natural formulator knows, making the natural equivalent is challenging in terms of ingredients and packaging - most formulators instead opt for creating texturising mists. Texturising mists aim to give
texture to long hair, together with a subtle hold. They want to achieve that ‘beach’ look. This type of formulation best suits most hair types, although mists can weigh down thin hair. Natural haircare formulators typically work with water- based formulations when making texturising mists, incorporating low level thickeners to give the hair ‘hold’, as well as humectants and anti-static
Hair gel. agents. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
©Comugnero Silvana/Fotolia
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