16 IFSCC CONGRESS
IFSCC Congress: Science for Beauty and Lifestyle
n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
The IFSCC Congress is one of the highlights in the world of cosmetic science and this year the event is to be held in Munich, Germany from the 18-21 September. IFSCC Congress attendants will meet peers from all over the world – from China to the US, from South Africa to South America, from Europe to South East Asia – to exchange thoughts, gain knowledge and discuss business. A panel of renowned scientists – each a specialist in their field – has selected 84 oral papers from various faculties of cosmetic research. All of these contain new, never-published information on the latest knowledge in personal care formulation and science. Additionally, 484 poster presentations give every visitor a comprehensive overview of where cosmetic research is heading in the future. On the exhibition floor, 35 selected companies will be present to discuss how their services and ingredients help formulators to transform the abundant new information into formulating innovative products. Four Pre-Congress workshops round up and complete the value of a visit to Munich in September. The full programme can be found at:
www.ifscc2018.com
Keynotes Skin Biology – A New Approach to the Central Issue of Cosmetics, Prof Leonhard Zastrow, Charité Universitätsmedizin In recent years, our knowledge of the skin’s structure and function has rapidly increased. If we consider the skin not only as ‘the largest human organ’ but also as an interface between the organism and the environment and if we take the findings of interface chemistry and interface physics duly into account, new approaches are opening up. This refers particularly to the inner phases that the various dermal layers are forming among each other. The following questions have to be considered: How is the energy supply of the skin arranged? How are, e.g., the defence systems against radiation, particulates and bacteria
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
organised and where are they localised? How is the defence capacity systemically maintained? Are external systems, creams, lotions etc., capable of compensating any systemic undersupply and, if so, how? Chemical signal-generating molecules, specifically free radicals should be investigated for their role in skin ageing and carcinogenesis. Where and on which conditions do they become effective? The presentation is about this new approach and describes the first consequences for skin cosmetics and medicine.
Hair - Ultrastructural Immune Localization of Corneous and Junctional Proteins in the Human Hair, Prof Lorenzo Alibardi, University of Bologna, Italy Transmission electron microscopy, coupled to immunogold, allows a fine localisation of proteins involved in cornification and cell cohesion in the human hair, despite cornification altering or hiding antigens to the binding with specific antibodies. The immunodetection of keratins and some associated structural and functional proteins involved in the process of hair cornification has been done, determining their precise localisation in the different hair compartments, ORS, IRS, cuticle, cortex and medulla.
The ultrastructural localisation of keratins of type I and II, K17, sulfur-rich KAPs, involucrin, loricrin and isopeptide-bonds, desmogleins, plakophilins and beta- catenin, and of the main enzymes involved in cornification such as transglutaminase, sulfydryl oxidase and caspase 14, is presented. Immunodetection of telomerase indicates cell proliferation in the hair bulb and ORS.
The study evidences the progressive loss of immunoreactivity to most proteins from the keratogenous to the consolidation zone of the developing hair where cornification is completed. The mature hair shaft is chemically and physically resistant and ensures endurance and functionality to the hair exposed on the epidermal surface.
Modern Lifestyle - Natural Cosmetics –
Facts and Fictions, Prof Dr h.c. Reinhard H.H. Neubert, Institute for Applied Dermatopharmaceutics at the Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg, Germany In recent years, intensive efforts have been stepped up in research, marketing and commerce to generate natural cosmetic products. Therefore, the state of the art
concerning natural cosmetics is presented and discussed in this lecture starting with the definition of the natural cosmetic actives and excipients. The differences in between natural actives and excipients and the semisynthetic ones are presented and discussed. The challenge in the field of naturals is the search for natural surfactants. Some examples are presented. The advantages of natural cosmetic
actives are discussed and critically evaluated. Phytoceramides and moistening plant extracts are presented as examples for natural cosmetic actives. The requirements are presented which
are necessary to characterise and standardise the natural cosmetic actives and excipients. Furthermore, methods are presented which can be used in order to optimise the natural cosmetic formulations concerning performance as well as stability and release of the cosmetic actives. The challenges in this concern are both the preservation of the natural cosmetic formulations based on natural preservative agents and the packaging of the formulations using natural materials. At the end, a comprehensive concept of natural cosmetic formulations is presented based on natural cosmetic actives as well as excipients.
Shielding the Skin - From Air Pollution to Sun Exposure: Shielding the Skin Against Environmental Threats, Prof Dr med Jean Krutmann, IUF – Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine Skin ageing results from an interplay of intrinsic (e.g. genetic) and extrinsic factors. In recent years it has been appreciated that extrinsic skin ageing is not merely due to
September 2018
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