98 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
Which mushrooms are right for your formulation?
Steve Farrar - M2 Ingredients
Mushrooms are attracting a lot of attention for their diverse applications for beauty, skin health and personal care. Interest and fascination with the fungi kingdom have sparked our imagination about new and exciting applications for functional mushroom ingredients. Building upon the knowledge of centuries of
use as therapeutic agents in traditional medicine practices around the world, new scientific studies on functional mushroom species are confirming the activities of these mushrooms as described and practiced traditionally. Additionally, science is continuing to discover new applications and modes of activity that had not been identified before. Functional mushrooms can support many
aspects of beauty and personal care and are being used both topically and for beauty-from- within nutraceuticals. With approximately 200 species of functional mushrooms currently produced commercially, there is an abundance of diversity in the bioactive compounds that have modes of action related beauty. The body of science continues to grow in the study of each species and the unique compounds found within them. We are gaining more insight into specific, targeted modes of activity for these ingredients. Additionally, there is evidence of synergistic
effects from a full spectrum of compounds. Beauty products can be designed to work via multiple modes of activity by combining ingredients, or using whole mushroom
ingredients that provide the full-spectrum of nutrients and active compounds found within a particular mushroom species. There are so many scientifically-backed
options today that sourcing the right mushroom ingredients may feel overwhelming. This is a guide to understanding different mushroom species and their bioactive compounds and how to best use functional mushrooms your beauty and personal care applications.
Topical applications: functional mushrooms support healthy skin, hair and scalp There is a lot of interest in the effects topical applications of functional mushroom preparations in skin and hair care products.
This emerging area of science provides additional validation for mushroom ingredients for cosmetic applications as antioxidants, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, anti-collagenase, anti- elastase, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-wrinkle, skin whitening, moisturizing, and wound-healing activities. The fungal metabolites that have been
identified as contributing to these activities include beta glucans, chitin, ergosterol, terpenoids, enzymes, vitamins, and an array of antioxidants including ergothioneine, glutathione, polyphenols, and selenium compounds. The microbiome of the human gut
where billions of microorganisms interact with each other and with our digestive and immune systems is now known to influence numerous bodily functions, cognition, and general wellbeing. Our skin also houses its own microbiome of microorganisms that is essential to our health and wellbeing.1 While diet, drugs, and stress can assault
our internal microbiome, many of the compounds that people put on their skin can also be quite disruptive to the healthy functioning and biodiversity of our skin microbiome. Mushrooms are reported to support the health and biodiversity of our gut microbiome,2
and also our skin microbiome.3 Figure 1: Mushroom parts and compounds PERSONAL CARE October 2024
Examples of mushroom species commonly used in skin care products Reishi mushroom Also known in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) as the “mushroom of immortality”, Reishi mushrooms (Ganoderma lucidum) have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. They are highly regarded as adaptogens which
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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