UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS


75


Figure 2: Linear economy


ingredients not just upcycled materials. From a formulation point of view, an


ingredient needs a reason to be selected for inclusion, above and beyond being upcycled. To satisfy today’s highly informed and ingredient- conscious beauty consumer, every part of the formulation, whether it is an emulsifier, emollient, preservative or active, needs to bring something to the party in terms of functionality. It is not enough for an ingredient to just


be upcycled; it still must bring efficacy to the product as a whole. This ensures that it appeals to the widest possible consumer base. Every aspect of a product should be added for a distinct purpose. The days of incorporating an exotic extract


into a formulation for the sake of a marketing claim are coming to an end. When developing an upcycled ingredient, it is important to benchmark the material against its peers in that ingredient category to ensure it is beneficial and efficacious. Upcycling can be a great story, but careful


consideration needs to be taken when communicating this message, to overcome potential negative connotations that a misinformed buyer may have. Using the term upcycling as a marketing tool may not have the effect brands are hoping for.


Perception of upcycling Adding value to ‘waste’ products is often a great use of resources, nevertheless, this does not mean the perception of the product is that of high value. Although upcycled products are likely to be as safe, and high quality as traditionally sourced products consumers might not view them this way. Some perceptions are that the upcycled products are ‘dirty’, lesser quality and heterogenous in many characteristics such as colour, smell and texture. Although this is not the case, and all raw


materials regardless of supply routes undergo stringent quality control, this does not mean the consumer perception will be shifted easily and quickly. Understandably, end users may be concerned if they know that the sourcing of a material is a waste product no matter how much processing it has undergone. The feelings of disgust towards waste materials are an evolved human response to protect themselves from pathogens and disease.5 Therefore, dispelling these perceptions is


challenging. Additionally, consumers may not understand upcycling and its application to the personal care industry. In general, communicating complex information and educating consumers, especially within the


www.personalcaremagazine.com


sustainability space is difficult. The danger of not changing these consumer


perceptions with effective marketing is that the upcycled market size never meets its predicted growth. Moving the stance of the conversation from upcycling to the circular economy could be a way to alter this perception.


The circular economy There are a range of ideas and definitions relating to the circular economy. Some definitions state phrases such as ‘reduce, reuse and recycle (3R principle)’,6,7


while others mention a restorative


and regenerative economy. For this article, I will use the definition from the Ellen Macarthur Foundation, as follows. ‘The circular economy is a system where


materials never become waste and nature is regenerated. In a circular economy, products and materials are kept in circulation through processes like maintenance, reuse, refurbishment, remanufacture, recycling and composting. The circular economy tackles climate change and other global challenges, like biodiversity loss, waste, and pollution, by decoupling economic activity from the consumption of finite resources’. 8 The circular economy is the larger picture


of which upcycling is one section; it is the entire supply chain - a closed system in which everything is reused. The current model most supply chains adhere to is linear. A circular economy is appealing to many


people. From an environmental point of view, it could be beneficial in stopping society from using the planet’s resources at an unsustainable pace. From a business point of view, it could


Figure 3: Circular economy


allow the opportunity to maintain (or potentially) increase profits. This does not mean transitioning to a circular


economy is an easy feat to which businesses will immediately convert. Investment into a new system can be hindered by previous investment into infrastructure created to support current linear systems. From a consumer perception, a circular


economy may be beneficial as it is partially removed from the waste aspect, and more focused on the circularity of the system. Nothing is regarded as waste; all products have values in different contexts. Having said this, upcycling and circular economy are relatively new terms which many consumers are not familiar with. Therefore, communication around this topic should be informative and considered.


Certifications of upcycling As there is no legal definition for an upcycled cosmetic finished product or upcycled cosmetic ingredient, this enables the possibility of misleading sustainability claims. Hopefully, this will become less common as the legality around sustainability claims tightens and education on this topic spreads. Consumers may seek third-party certifications


for ‘stamps of approval’ to verify the claim of a product. Currently, there is a certification for upcycled food which has been applied, in some cases, to the cosmetic industry.9


These cases are


specifically where the upcycled aspect has been sourced from a food or drink supply chain. An example of this is Faba TONIQ® from The


Upcycled Beauty Company, a hair care ingredient upcycled from hummus production.10


Cosmetic


ingredients that are upcycled from other waste streams cannot be certified underneath this standard. The Upcycled Beauty Company are looking to solve this. They are collaborating within the industry to define upcycling within cosmetics and create a broad standard which will apply to multiple sources.


Examples Some waste streams are harder to extract value from if they have already undergone a level of extraction for their primary purpose. For example, when upcycled ingredients are sourced from press cakes which have already been used to create oil or another ingredient. According to Gattefossé product marketing


leader Laurie Canel, its Eyeglorius™ active is sourced from the leaves of sea buckthorn berry plants, in which the berries are used for the food industry.11


As


this material is derived directly from the leaves that have not


October 2024 PERSONAL CARE


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108