ANTI-POLLUTION
Dual protection against oxidative stress
Annika Greupner, Katharina Braun – Cosphatec
Oxidative stress is a major factor influencing skin ageing and the degradation of cosmetic products. It occurs when free radicals - unstable molecules generated by UV radiation and environmental pollution, for example reactive oxygen species (ROS) - damage cells. This leads to a loss of skin elasticity which promotes fine lines and wrinkles.1 In addition, oxidative stress can cause inflammation which can lead to redness and skin irritation.2
In the long term, it contributes to
premature skin ageing as the skin cells’ natural ability to regenerate is impaired. In cosmetic formulations containing oils
and fats, oxidative processes can lead to the breakdown of lipid components. This manifests in the form of rancid odours and a change in colour and texture of the product. Ultimately, this shortens the shelf life and reduces the effectiveness of cosmetic products. Antioxidants play a crucial role in cosmetic
products as they protect the skin from oxidation-induced damage and associated signs of ageing. As natural constituents of many plants, antioxidants neutralise free radicals with the help of their radical scavenging or electron donor properties, rendering them harmless.3 Cosphatec, a leading international raw
materials manufacturer based in Hamburg, is committed to its mission of developing sustainable and innovative solutions for creating for modern natural cosmetics. With a focus on natural, sustainable and skin-friendly ingredients, Cosphatec offers more than 70 products that fulfil the current standards of natural cosmetics and offer additional positive benefits for the formulation or skin in addition to product protection. An outstanding example of this philosophy
is the latest innovation in their raw material portfolio: Cosphaderm® Tocopharin – hereafter known as the tocopherol/carnosic acid blend - is a liquid antioxidant blend comprising an innovative fusion of tocopherol and carnosic acid that combines the protection of a formulation’s oil phase with a positive influence on oxidation processes in the skin. The included tocopherol mixture stems
from the soy plant. Its specific tocopherol composition of α-, β-, γ- and δ-isoforms contains an especially high proportion of γ-tocopherol and thus ensures excellent antioxidative protection of the oil phase of the formulation. Carnosic acid is a phenolic diterpene
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(Figure 1) extractable from rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) which has long been valued for its bioactive properties.4 The rosemary extract incorporated into
the tocopherol/carnosic acid blend has a carnosic acid content of at least 90%. Of all the constituents of rosemary, carnosic acid is one of the key components that give the plant its antioxidant properties. As a cosmetic ingredient, carnosic acid thus
not only supports the tocopherols included in the tocopherol/carnosic acid blend in the protection of the oil phase of formulations, but also has a distinct effect in protecting the skin from oxidative stress. However, carnosic acid provides further
benefits for the skin as assessed in numerous scientific studies. When the skin is exposed to UV irradiation,
the upregulation of matrix metalloproteinases causes the breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins such as collagens, which leads to a long-term loss of skin elasticity and thus represents a natural factor in photoageing. In the scientific literature on carnosic acid,
there is further evidence of its photoprotective properties.5
Thanks to the inhibition of matrix
metalloproteinases by carnosic acid, which has been proven in studies, photoageing can be actively prevented.6 Its anti-inflammatory properties are
manifested, for example, in the suppression
of interleukin release and the blocking of the Syk/Src signalling pathway.7
containing this compound can help reduce redness8
and restore skin homeostasis.
inhibit the growth of bacteria such as P. acnes and S. aureus.9
As an antimicrobial, carnosic acid can also This makes it suitable,
for example, for cosmetic applications to help control skin blemishes caused by acne.4 This plethora of positive effects of carnosic acid on the skin supports its main antioxidative function. According to Loussouarn et al. (2017), the antioxidant effect of carnosic acid is based on chemical quenching of reactive oxygen species (ROS).10 During its preventative reaction with free
radicals in the initiation step of lipid oxidation, carnosic acid oxidises into derivatives like Carnosol, which in turn also act as antioxidants, leading to a cascade of antioxidative protectors against ROS-induced lipid peroxidation. Tocopherols, on the other hand, operate by
a radical scavenging mechanism, breaking the chain reaction during the propagation phase of lipid oxidation. A formal hydrogen atom transfer from
tocopherol hydroquinone to the intermediate alkylperoxyl radical results in a less reactive tocopheroxyl radical. Due to its stabilisation by mesomeric effects, it is unable to further propagate the radical chain.11 The combination of carnosic acid and
October 2024 PERSONAL CARE Skin care products
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