66 SUSTAINABILITY
Ceramides and fatty acids levels in the epidermis 5
+20.3% p<0.01
4 Day 28 ■ Baseline ■ 3 2 Day 0 Day 28
Figure 4: Ceramides and fatty acids levels in the epidermis before and after application of a cream containing liposomal biotin
stratum granulosum (water homeostasis) and indicate that a change in water gradient occurs at the boundary between the stratum corneum and the stratum granulosum, which makes it possible to estimate the stratum corneum thickness in vivo by detection of this interface.6 By increasing the epidermal lipid profile,
a direct consequence on the epidermal water content and stratum corneum thickness can be expected. Those two parameters can be measured with confocal Raman spectroscopy.7 In the same clinical study, measurements
were performed at progressive depth in the epidermis and sigmoidal shaped curves were obtained as expected (data not shown). Individual variations were seen both in water content at the skin surface and in constant water content value in deeper parts. A gradient of water from the skin surface to
the viable epidermis cells where the amount of water reached a constant value of 60 to 70%. After 28 days, the water content increased very significantly by 110.5 μg/cm2
of stratum
corneum, i.e.16.4% (p<0.01), up to 37.4% with 80% responsive volunteers. Stratum corneum thickness was estimated
from the water concentration profile. It corresponds to the depth at which the rate of change becomes almost zero, i.e. where the water content reaches an almost constant value The results revealed that the application of the facial cream containing liposomal natural biotin contributed to increase significantly the thickness of the stratum corneum by 1.6 μm, i.e. 10.6% (p<0.05), up to 24.8% with 80% responsive volunteers (Figure 6). This increase is directly linked to water
storage and thus corneocyte swelling, and not to accelerated keratinocyte differentiation and migration. Epidermal reinforcement through the
increase of ceramide production resulted in an increase in water content in the whole stratum corneum. A well hydrated stratum corneum allows to improve its metabolism and integrity.
PERSONAL CARE October 2024 Figure 6: Increase in stratum corneum thickness after a 28-day application of liposomal biotin
www.personalcaremagazine.com
150 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
+33.3% Stratum corneum
+20.3%, p<0.01 granulosum Stratum
Stratum spinsum
Ceramide and fatty acid externalisation
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 Depth into Skin (µm)
Figure 5: Effect of liposomal biotin on the synthesis of ceramides and fatty acids as a function of the epidermis depth
Indeed, although the stratum corneum is
composed of ‘dead’ cells, it is the site of very significant metabolic activity. Yet, unlike most other tissues, this activity has the particularity of being extracellular. It is due to enzymes, hydrolases, excreted by Odland Bodies with ceramide bilayers that contribute to natural and regular desquamation. Dehydration of deeper layers triggers the
progressive release of various inflammatory mediators which induce keratinocyte proliferation and disruption of epidermal differentiation. Besides, corneocyte swelling contribute to improve skin transparency and glow because of the modification of light reflection and diffusion in the skin.
Conclusion For the first time, the effect of biotin on endogen ceramide production after a topical treatment in humans is described. With these unprecedented results, we have demonstrated the activity of liposomal natural biotin, commercialised under trade name EraGlow beautin by Biosyntia, on epidermal reinforcement and water content after topical applications for 28 days. Further clinical studies will be performed
to investigate the multi-benefits of this new active ingredient developed by the Danish fermentation leader Biosyntia.
PC
References 1. Goldberg LJ, Lenzy Y. Nutrition and hair. Clin. Dermatol. 2010; 28:412–419
2. Mock DM. Biotin. Modern Nutrition in Health and Disease, 9th edn. Shils ME, Olson JA, Shike M, Ross AC (eds.). Baltimore, MD: Lippincott Williams & Wilkins, 1999, 459-466
3. Wang Z, Man MQ, Li T, Elias PM, Mauro TM. Aging-associated alterations in epidermal function and their clinical significance. Aging. (Albany NY). 2020 Mar 27;12(6):5551-5565
4. Feingold KR. Thematic review series: skin lipids. The role of epidermal lipids in cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis. J. Lipid. Res. 2007; 48:2531-2546
5. Bouwstra JA, de Graaff A, Gooris GS, Nijsse J, Wiechers JW, van Aelst AC. Water Distribution and Related Morphology in Human Stratum Corneum at Different Hydration Levels. J. Invest. Derm. 2003, 120(5):750-758
6. Warner RR, Myers MC, Taylor DA. Electron probe analysis of human skin: determination of the water concentration profile. J. Invest. Dermatol. 1988; 90: 218-224
7. Bielfeldt S, Schoder, Volker, Ely U, Pol A, Sterke J, Wilhelm K-P. Assessment of human stratum corneum thickness and its barrier properties by in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy. Int. J. Cosm. Sci. 2009, 31. 479-480
Ceramides and fatty acids (AU/cm2
SC) x102
Ceramide and fatty acid level (AU)
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