32 ANTI-POLLUTION
aged appearance. Additionally, oxidative stress–induced damage triggers inflammatory processes, exacerbating skin ageing and promoting conditions such as uneven pigmentation and dullness. Visually, oxidized proteins can cause the skin
to appear lacklustre and uneven in tone. The compromised barrier function and increased inflammation result in redness, blotchiness, and a rough texture. Overall, protein oxidation detrimentally affects the skin’s health, appearance, and resilience, highlighting the importance of maintaining oxidative balance to preserve youthful and vibrant skin.
In search of an advanced skin care solution A facial skin care product that acts as an effective daily companion should support the skin in maintaining or restoring its oxidative balance. While antioxidants are commonly included in skin care formulations, they are often unstable and can become pro-oxidative at certain concentrations, exacerbating the oxidative stress. Therefore, a more advanced solution is required—one that enhances the skin’s own antioxidative defences to prevent exhaustion. CefiraProtect CLR™ (CP Complex; INCI:
Betaine, Isomalt, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Kefiran) represents such an advanced solution. Inspired by the traditional health benefits of kefir—a fermented milk beverage known for its self-preserving and antioxidant properties—CP Complex utilizes Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens. This probiotic bacterium, traditionally
found in kefir grains, produces kefiran, a polysaccharide with significant health benefits. Kefir, a staple in the diets of the nomadic peoples of the Caucasus mountains for centuries, has been valued for its health- promoting properties. It is rich in probiotics, vitamins, minerals, and bioactive compounds that contribute to its antioxidant and anti- inflammatory effects.
Kefiran: a beneficial metabolite in CP Complex Kefiran (Figure 3), a water-soluble polysaccharide produced by Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens, has been studied for its diverse health benefits. As a key metabolite of Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens, kefiran contributes significantly to the health- promoting qualities of kefir, making it a valuable
140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Skin explant 1 Skin explant 2 Figure 4: CP Complex strongly induces skin antioxidant potential PERSONAL CARE October 2024 Figure 2: Protein oxidation has dramatic outcomes for molecular structure and functionality
Figure 3: Molecular structure of kefiran
ingredient in skin care formulations. Transferring the beneficial properties of kefir
to skin care required a high level of technical expertise and innovation. The challenge was to harness the power of Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens and its production of kefiran in a plant-based, vegan form. CLR Berlin, known for its commitment
to cutting-edge fermented and otherwise natural skin care solutions, achieved this through sustainable, cell-based fermentation technology. This modern approach not only preserves the health benefits of kefir and kefiran but also aligns with the growing demand for vegan and environmentally friendly products.
Experimental ex vivo studies In order to obtain sufficient evidence for the beneficial effects of CP Complex and its relevance as a daily skin care companion,
Control ■ Stressed (UVA/B) ■ Placebo + Stress ■ CP Complex (3%) + UVA ■
350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
numerous in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo experiments were performed. In in vitro experiments, it could be shown
that the treatment of keratinocytes with CP Complex led to a clear reduction of the presence of free radicals and oxidized proteins. This was further elucidated in ex vivo studies.
Skin antioxidative potential Skin antioxidative potential was measured by ESR (Electron Spin Resonance) spectroscopy. Skin was labelled with an ESR active test radical (TEMPO, 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl piperidine-N- oxyl, Sigma-Aldrich, Munich, Germany) that is reduced by the antioxidant systems inside the epidermis and dermis.
Method Test products were applied topically on skin explants.
Untreated + UVA ■ CP Complex (1%) + UVA ■
Control
Whole skin
Dermis
Epidermis
Stratum Corneum
Figure 5: CP Complex strongly reduces protein oxidation in all skin layers
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Antioxidant system capacity (%)
Oxidized Proteins (%)
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