64 SUSTAINABILITY
Has biotin still yet to deliver some secrets?
Joe Power - Biosyntia
Biotin, also known as vitamin B7 or vitamin H, has gained commercial popularity for its claimed benefits on healthy hair and nail growth. Yet despite its reputation, there is limited research to support the effectiveness of biotin in healthy individuals. While biotin is readily found in food,
however, congenital or acquired biotin deficiency can happen. Typical signs of biotin deficiency include alopecia, eczematous skin rashes, seborrheic dermatitis, showing that biotin has a fundamental role in ensuring skin integrity and beauty.
Role of biotin Biotin serves as a cofactor for a number of carboxylases, such as 3-methylcrotonyl-CoA carboxylase in the leucine catabolic pathway, propionyl-CoA carboxylase in the valine catabolic pathway, and acetyl-CoA carboxylase, the rate-limiting enzyme for fatty acid synthesis. Additionally, biotin is a cofactor for the
enzyme pyruvate carboxylase. Through its role in pyruvate carboxylase, biotin is essential for the replenishment of the citric acid cycle (also called the Krebs cycle and the tricarboxylic acid cycle) metabolites, which are essential for normal cellular functions. These enzyme complexes play an important
role in multiple metabolic processes including gluconeogenesis, fatty acid synthesis, and amino acid catabolism. Furthermore, some non-carboxylase activities have been described. Biotin exerts antioxidant activities and plays a significant role in epigenetics through biotinylation of histones. While the effects of biotin have been
studied in vitro on various types of cell cultures and by dietary biotin supplementation, little is known about the topical effects of biotin. Biotin’s function in protein synthesis and more specifically, in keratin production, explains its contribution to healthy nail and hair growth. However, its role in lipid synthesis is of
high interest for the development of skin care products and, more specifically, for slowing down the appearance of signs of ageing. In this paper, some unprecedented effects of biotin on the skin after topical applications are presented.
Biotin production While it is required by all organisms, it is synthesized only by bacteria, yeast, moulds, algae, and some plant species. Biotin comes from a variety of sources, but very few would be
PERSONAL CARE October 2024 Figure 1: Biotin
considered “biotin rich”. So far, biotin has been industrially produced by chemical synthesis. With the desire to change how ingredients
are produced and ensure that nature’s ingredients can affordably be supplied without the need for increasing cropland, animal production and petrochemistry use, Biosyntia has developed a proprietary fermentation process to obtain high purity natural (NOI=1) biotin.
Natural biotin: a cellular hero In order to improve its solubility and bioavailability, natural biotin is vectorised in
H O O H S N H H H N O
highly stable liposomal structures. 0.2% of natural biotin is incorporated in sunflower lecithin in order to form bilayered vesicles that will ensure progressive natural biotin delivery to the epidermis. This product is commercially available under the trade name EraGlow beautin by Biosyntia™. A penetration study has been performed
in vivo to assess the behaviour of biotin when applied on the skin either in a free from or in delivery enhancing complex. The same quantities (50 µl) of both products were applied by a trained technician on the arm of five female volunteers aged 37 to 54. The penetration of biotin in the stratum
corneum up to a depth of 18 µm was directly monitored by confocal Raman spectroscopy using the Gen2 SCA Ultimate (RiverD International BV, Rotterdam, Netherlands) after 1, 10, 20, 40 and 120 minutes in order to evaluate the speed and amount of biotin delivery in a real-time non-invasive way. One minute after application, the total
amount of biotin that penetrated into the skin was three times (284%) higher with liposomal natural biotin than with free biotin (Figure 2). We could also notice an important difference in biotin amounts on the surface of the stratum corneum. Measurements revealed that the amount
of biotin was 3.2 times higher in the case of liposomal natural biotin, showing that the
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