42 ANTI-POLLUTION
tocopherols with their different antioxidant mechanisms into one blend hence yields an extensive antioxidative effect of Tocopharin.
Excellent protection for cosmetic products
The outstanding effectiveness of the tocopherol/carnosic acid blend in protecting oils against rancidity was demonstrated in Rancimat tests. With the Rancimat method, the time span until an oil is spoiled (“induction time”) is determinable. Lipid samples with or without antioxidative
protection are exposed to accelerated ageing conditions simulated by a continuous air flow passing through the samples in a reaction vessel. Occurrence of secondary oxidation
products during lipid oxidation is assessed via conductivity increase in a second measuring vessel and indicates oil rancidity. The longer it takes for the oil to spoil, the better is the performance of its antioxidative ingredients. Sunflower oil containing the tocopherol/
carnosic acid mixture was tested in comparison to oil containing the industry standard mixed tocopherols (Figure 2). Relative induction time change compared to untreated sunflower oil when using the antioxidants is shown. The improvement in oil oxidation stability with reference material 0.2% mixed tocopherols is evident. However, applied at the same concentration,
a further 25 % increase in stability can be achieved with the tocopherol/carnosic acid compound. At a concentration of 0.68 % Tocopharin, which contains a tocopherol quantity equivalent to the amount of pure tocopherols in 0.2% mixed tocopherols, the influence of carnosic acid is clearly highlighted. The corresponding application concentration
of 0.68% Tocopharin leads to a tripling of oil stability, which demonstrates the dual effectiveness of the raw material.
Safeguarding the skin from oxidative stress In order to substantiate the antioxidant effect of Tocopharin in the skin, an in vitro study was
200% HO HOOC OH
Application The tocopherol/carnosic acid compound is an easy-to-integrate blend with no impact on odour or appearance of a formulation. It can be added to both the oil phase and the final formulation; for optimal efficacy, it is advisable to avoid long-term heating of the antioxidants. Cosphatec recommends a concentration of 0.1- 0.5% for effective use. Tocopharin combines the proven benefits of
H Figure 1: Structure of carnosic acid
conducted in which the amount of reactive oxygen species in human keratinocytes was measured.
These skin cells were incubated with the
test substances for 24 hours, exposed to UV irradiation for induction of ROS formation and subsequent measurement of decreased ROS formation.
The positive effect of Tocopharin becomes
obvious in comparison to the reference materials mixed tocopherols and the synthetic standard antioxidant Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), which were each used at the same concentration in the assay (Figure 3). The synthetic antioxidant BHT and the
mixed tocopherols display comparable performance at 0.003%. At the same application concentration, the tocopherol/ carnosic acid blend can significantly decrease the formation of ROS through UV irradiation. Contrasted with the untreated sample,
Cosphaderm Tocopharin can reduce the ROS level by 26%. A tenfold concentration increase to 0.03% the tocopherol/carnosic acid blend even provokes the UVA-induced ROS level sinking to 63% compared to the unprotected control. These results confirm a striking skin- cell-protecting effect of Tocopharin against UV-induced oxidation processes.
+207%
tocopherols with the added efficacy of carnosic acid to achieve double product protection for the oil phase without driving up production costs. Moreover, the included natural rosemary
extract offers additional skin benefits supporting a formulation’s anti-ageing effect. The tocopherol/carnosic acid mixture with its carnosic acid ingredient therefore picks up on the current rosemary trend in cosmetics and, at the same time, fits perfectly into any concept of a nature-based formulation. Cosphatec supports the search for trend- based and effective formulations with an extensive and continuously growing portfolio of frame formulations for face, body and hair. Its team of experts is available at any time to answer questions about the application and provide support in the development, formulation, testing and refinement of customised formulations.
Conclusion Cosphatec´s tocopherol/carnosic acid blend is a strong antioxidant blend that effectively protects both the skin and a cosmetic formulation. The combination of carnosic acid, derived from rosemary, and tocopherol provides a dual protection mechanism that prevents oxidative stress in the skin and maintains the stability of the oil phase in formulations. Scientific studies confirm the effectiveness of the tocopherol/carnosic acid blend. Firstly, it helps extend the shelf life of lipid
components in formulations as demonstrated by Rancimat testing. Furthermore, the compound causes a significant reduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation in human keratinocytes after UVA irradiation, outperforming synthetic antioxidants and other reference materials. The tocopherol/carnosic acid blend reduces
+106% 100% +81% 0% Mixed tocopherols 0.2%
Cosphaderm Tocopharin
0.2%
Cosphaderm Tocopharin
Figure 2: Determination of oxidation stability via Rancimat test at 100°C according to method §64 LFGB L13.00-38:2010-01. Relative increase in induction time compared to untreated sunflower oil by 0.2% mixed tocopherols 0.2% Cosphaderm Tocopharin or 0.68% Cosphaderm Tocopharin
PERSONAL CARE October 2024 0.68%
ROS formation by 26% compared to untreated samples and thus offers outstanding protection against UV-induced oxidation processes. The key benefits of Tocopharin include: ■ Dual protection: protects the skin from oxidative stress and UV damage and maintains the stability of the oil phase in formulations thanks to included potent antioxidants tocopherols and carnosic acid. ■ COSMOS and NATRUE approved: Meets the strict standards for natural approved cosmetics. ■ Versatile in use: Liquid oil-soluble blend that is suitable for a variety of formulations and has no effect on their odour or colour.
References 1. Rinnerthaler M, Bischof J, Streubel MK et al. Oxidative Stress in Aging Human Skin.
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PC
Relative induction time increase
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