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INTERVIEW


different with how they see AI, they see them as a threat and they want to stick their head in the sand and ignore them in the hope they go away. Well, they’re not going away. They’re only going to be more and more used by your company. So, either you adapt or you become obsolete. So my advice is learn these things, adapt,


become good at using them and use them as a tool. They’re not a replacement for your own brain. We still need those, at least for the next decade.


TP: Until Elon Musk has his way (!) PR: Yes, exactly! We still need experts to be able to solve problems. AI is not good at solving unique problems. It’s good at identifying things that have already been solved. So, until it gets really good at solving unique


problems, I think there’s plenty of space for cosmetic chemists. But, like I said, you have to embrace these AI tools. Use them to make youself a more efficient, more productive chemist.


TP: What is the beauty and personal care industry not talking about that it should be talking about? PR: Nobody’s really talking about true innovation in our industry. There is a lot of hype, but there really isn’t anything new to tell consumers, from my standpoint. The bond builders are probably the newest technology that a consumer might notice a difference. But if you look at skin moisturisers, we’re


not using any new ingredients. The products are elegant, but they have elegant for the last 20 years. It isn’t getting better. One of the biggest problems in the industry is this dearth of innovation, and we need to do something to mix it up and become more innovative in the way that consumers can notice. I see our industry as kind of stalled as far as


innovation goes, and maybe we can get better. I’m hoping the developments in peptide


technology can really have an impact. Certainly, there’s areas of polymers that can be innovative. But finding the next natural ingredient from the Brazilian rainforest, well, we’ve gone to that well many times. And those are really just claims ingredients, where you sprinkle it in there. It’s not going to be really doing anything new, but it does make a good story that the consumer buys.


TP: Where will the innovation come from? PR: If it’s going to come from anywhere, it’s going to come from universities. There’s a lot of interesting things that you can do in cosmetics that don’t require as much testing and as much money as, say, healthcare. I do have faith that we’re going to find some


university research that could have an impact. The biggest challenge with that is the bridge between university research, where they can make a breakthrough, and getting that to industry. Technology transfer is a weak link in the chain.


TP: Can the IFSCC help with that? PR: That is certainly a possibility. The IFSCC Congress helps to bring university types and industry types together to find out about new technologies, and the same is true to a certain extent at in-cosmetics events. IFSCC Congress is perhaps our best chance to make that happen. PC


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October 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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