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COVER STORY: ASHLAND
Tunable, transformed vegetable oils
Who drives innovation with sustainable technologies? We do Ashland is disrupting the industry with unique, new-to-the-world technologies that are scaling multiple markets with a wide range of attractive characteristics. They are renewable, natural, biodegradable, non-microplastic, non-GMO, and vegan. The platforms provide four-in-one functionality with tunable water solubility and are bolstered by intellectual property protection. Transformed vegetable oils (TVO) is a vital
platform for formulators who need customized ingredients for personal care. Since their launch, these ‘tunable’ TVOs are proving to be a significant disruptor, adding value for customers across skin and hair care applications.
Who improves sun care SPF and pigment dispersion? Antaron™ soja glyceride Sun care and colour cosmetic manufacturers struggle to improve the naturality of their products without sacrificing performance or sensory attributes, which are key in driving consumers’ choices. Polymers are widely used throughout the
industry in cosmetic formulations as rheology modifiers, thickeners and film formers. Most of the best performing polymers are fossil-derived and non-biodegradable. Ashland Antaron™ soja glyceride hails from
the company’s Transformed Vegetable Oils (TVO) Platform. It was developed to meet emerging market needs for high-performing, more natural products. Antaron™ soja glyceride is a novel, nature-derived, biodegradable liquid film former providing excellent water-resistance and SPF boosting properties and long-lasting and colour-transfer resistance. The TVO process to develop Antaron™
100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40%
80.25% 74.41% *(p=0.023) *(p=0.045)
Interview: IFSCC education committee chair Perry Romanowski
In focus: Anti-pollution Sustainability Skin microbiome
Plus: Extensive in-cosmetics Asia 2024 preview
soja glyceride began with a natural organic oil and soybean oil. Ashland’s researchers solved for how to polymerize it without the use of a catalyst or initiator. The product was created by the addition of two naturally derived monomers, glycerin and octyldodecanol to the anhydride functionality that was attached on the backbone. The final polymer has great aesthetics. It is available as a liquid so formulators can easily work it into formulations. Antaron™ soja glyceride is a non-GMO,
vegan suitable, water-resistant film former for use in sun care and colour cosmetics applications. It is compatible with both organic and inorganic ingredients. This breakthrough product offers a solution to sun care and cosmetic manufacturers, enabling them to
83.43% Control Ganex V-220 polymer 2% antaron soja glyceride
50% 45% 40% 35% 30% 25% 20% 15% 10% 5% 0%
Clean lips Initial Post paper imprint Figure 1: Antaron™ soja glyceride also provides colour transfer resistance PERSONAL CARE October 2024 October 2024 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
improve the naturality and sustainability of their formulations while creating a variety of appealing textures, helping meet their sustainability goals.
With outstanding mineral dispersion and
homogenization capabilities, Antaron™ soja is an essential ingredient of every formulator’s toolbox enabling easy creation of delightful textures with high oil-dispersible particle loads into products such as mineral sunscreens, lipsticks, foundations, mascaras, highlighters, clay masks, diaper rash creams and more. In addition, it decreases colour-transfer when added to lipsticks, Figure 1 results show that antaron™ soja glyceride has similar performance to the industry benchmark, Antaron/Ganex™ V-220 polymer (Figure 2 and Figure 3). Antaron™ soja glyceride offers a long-awaited solution to sun care and colour cosmetics manufacturers, enabling them to improve the naturality and sustainability of their formulations without scarifying performance and meeting their sustainability goals.
Who softens skin from a cleanser? Softhance™ mr conditioning agent Consumers are aware of the stripping and drying effect skin cleansers can have by removing the natural oils and protective barrier of the skin. Dryness, irritation, and inflammation are just a few of the detrimental impacts that regular cleansers can have on skin and sometimes they can cause wrinkles, acne breakouts, or inflammation. Rinse-off products that contain skincare infusions and hydrating chemicals however, can balance the microbiota and replenish skin’s moisture content, maintaining healthy and hydrated skin on the body. The integration of skin care ingredients into shower care has given rise to a new category of
Static SPF■ WR SPF■ 40% 43% 35% 30.5% 40%48.3%
Negative control (no polymer)
Antaron/ganexTM V-220 polymer
soja glyceride Figure 2: In vivo static SPF and 80 minute water resistance
www.personalcaremagazine.com
AntaronTM
Red Colour Retention (%)
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