94 SKIN MICROBIOME
affecting the body’s overall homeostasis and immune regulation. Microbiome dysbiosis reflects an altered
biotope, indicating changes in the biotope’s resources or conditions. For instance, acne is often associated with increased sebum production, which provides a more favourable environment for the anaerobic bacterium Cutibacterium acnes. Similarly, an imbalance involving Staphylococcus aureus can contribute to conditions like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Fungal species, such as Malassezia, are commonly linked to dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis when their populations become disproportionate.
Sensitive skin Sensitive skin is a common condition characterized by self-reported sensations such as tightness, stinging, burning, tingling, pain, and itching in response to stimuli that typically should not cause such reactions. This condition can affect individuals with normal skin, and those with a disrupted skin barrier. Sensitive skin is particularly prevalent on the face, although it can affect all body locations. The exact cause of sensitive skin remains
complex and multifactorial. It is thought to arise from various physical elements like ultraviolet light, heat, cold, and wind. Lifestyle factors such as overuse of certain cosmetics, diet, pollutants, and sometimes psychological stress or hormonal changes are also considered contributory.4 Recent studies indicate that over 71% of
adults worldwide report experiencing sensitive skin, highlighting its significance as a global concern. Among these individuals, 40% describe their sensitive skin as moderate to severe, often correlating with atopic conditions.5 The high prevalence of sensitive skin underscores the need for increased awareness and effective management strategies.
Relationship between skin microbiome and atopic dermatitis Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory
S. aureus
production of neuropeptides and other pro- inflammatory mediators. This heightens the inflammation and
triggers further scratching, which disrupts the cutaneous barrier and perpetuates the cycle. This itch-scratch vicious cycle significantly impacts the individual’s quality of life, causing chronic discomfort and potential skin- associated issues, including redness, itchiness, and intensifying skin sensitivity (Figure 1). Furthermore, recent studies have established a link between S. aureus and pruritus, which significantly
contributes to skin disruption in individuals with skin sensitivity and
atopy-prone conditions.6 In response to these findings, Solabia
Figure 1: The itch-scratch vicious cycle
skin condition resulting from a complex interplay of immune system abnormalities, skin barrier impairment, and environmental factors. This disruption leads to severe itching and skin lesions. Persistent scratching creates a vicious itch-scratch, resulting in barrier dysfunction, which will involve an increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and a greater penetration of allergens and irritants. Consequently, a microbial imbalance, or
skin dysbiosis, occurs, allowing opportunistic bacteria to colonize the skin. Studies have highlighted S. aureus as a key marker for AD, with this bacterial colonization aggravating the signs and correlating the severity of the condition.
The initial immune response to
environmental allergens or irritants triggers an inflammatory reaction in the skin, characterized by the release of cytokines. This inflammation leads to the activation and hyperstimulation of sensory nerve endings, increasing the
S. epidermidis ■
S.aureus ■ S. epidermidis Co-culture
has developed an active ingredient specifically designed to target S. aureus, aiming to restore microbial balance and address this challenging aspect of skin sensitivity. By targeting the microbial component of this condition, this innovative approach offers a promising avenue for enhancing user outcomes and improving overall quality of life.
Nature-inspired innovation for skin health Nature serves as an exceptional source of inspiration for ingredient design, particularly regarding host-microbe interactions. Discovered in 1988, Pseudozyma flocculosa is an epiphytic fungus that acts as a commensal biocontrol agent, maintaining a symbiotic relationship with its plant host. Pseudozyma flocculosa is known
for its ability to prevent colonization of phytopathogens, such as downy mildew, by releasing a specific extracellular glycolipid with powerful properties: flocculosin. As a member of the plant holobiont, Pseudozyma flocculosa maintains a healthy ecological niche for its host plant. Inspired by this symbiotic interconnection,
Solabia explored the properties of flocculosin in the context of skin health and beauty, considering whether they could implement a protective strategy for the delicate human holobiont. The active ingredient was obtained after
Control
eight years of research through a bioguided fermentation under optimized conditions, precisely guiding the metabolic pathway of the fungus to produce the desired molecule, ‘flocculosin’, a postbiotic glycolipid stabilized in a plant-based propanediol solvent to finally obtain Serenibiome. The process yielded a product 100% natural,
COSMOS-approved, and was achieved through water-efficient and energy management methods, resulting in lower CO2
emissions. Demonstrated by several studies, this Serenibiome Figure 2: Bacterial colonies forming on soy agar Petri dishes PERSONAL CARE October 2024
postbiotic glycolipid has proved unique activity in relation to the human holobiont, presenting groundbreaking results for sensitive skin prone to atopy. It tackles the itch-scratch vicious cycle, by rebalancing the microbial population, calming neurogenic inflammation, and repairing the skin barrier.
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