ANTI-POLLUTION
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Figure 6: Treatment with CP Complex accelerates reduction of exposome-induced stress and makes skin more resilient
■ After five hours: skin explants were irradiated with UVA/B (UVB (280–320 nm) at 23.5 W/m2 and UVA (320–400 nm) at 180 W/ m2). ■ Explants were placed on filter paper saturated with the test radical at 1 mM concentration in water for five minutes. ■ Skin biopsies of 4mm ø were taken and placed in a special ESR tissue cell. ■ ESR spectra of the test radical were recorded and results generated. ■ Non-stressed and untreated control were set at 100%.
Results For both skin explants, it could be shown that CP Complex helps to fully re-establish and even improve skin’s antioxidant capacity (Figure 4). Interestingly, the placebo (vehicle, identical formulation but not containing CP Complex) showed to have a negative impact. This might relate to its negative effect on skin barrier.
Skin-deep protection against protein oxidation Explants were obtained from abdominal surgery. Donor: a 41-year-old female Caucasian (phototype II/III). Test products were topically applied on the skin explant’s surface (2 mg/cm2
) and
explants were further incubated for 24 hours. Subsequently the skin explants were irradiated with UVA (365 nm): 6 J/cm2 irradiation.
Then, skin explants were sampled,
transferred in OCT for cryopreservation, snap- frozen in liquid nitrogen, and conserved at –80°C until analyses. Finally quantification of protein carbonylation (as a product of protein oxidation) took place. Method of analysis: Explant sections of 5
µm of thickness were obtained using a cryostat (Leica) and fixed with a solution containing 95% ethanol and 5% acetic acid. Oxidatively damaged (carbonylated) proteins were labeled using an OxiProteomics® fluorescent probe
www.personalcaremagazine.com UVA, 40 minutes of
(Ex = 647 nm / Em = 650 nm) functionalized to specifically bind to carbonyl moieties and DAPI (4’,6-diamidino-2-phenylindol) for nuclear labeling. Fluorescent images were collected with
an epi-fluorescent microscope (EVOS M5000 Imaging System) and analyzed with ImageJ software (Schneider, 2012). Non-stressed and untreated control was set at 100%.
Results The histological pictures of this ex vivo experiment reveal how dramatic the effect of UVA irradiation is and that the presence of oxidized proteins is very strongly increased in the stratum corneum, at the dermal–epidermal junction and in the dermis (Figure 5). It could be shown that the treatment with CP Complex strongly helps to reduce the presence of oxidized proteins in all skin layers. As is the case for the result obtained on
oxidized proteins in the above-described in vitro study, the results from this study are coherent with the earlier studies which showed that CP Complex improves the skin’s own antioxidant potential.
Resilient skin = self-maintaining skin: in vivo studies Exposome-induced stress and skin resilience A study was performed on the inner forearm of 13 women (average age 38.6 years old). The study had three phases. During the first, so-called ‘irritation phase’,
no test products were applied, but skin was challenged twice a day with a 5% SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate) solution in water for a total of seven days. During the subsequent seven days, the ‘treatment phase’, the skin was not stressed with SDS, but was treated twice daily with test products (CP Complex (3%), Placebo, Untreated). SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate, 5%) is an anionic surfactant and was used as a source of stress, mimicking the exposome. Like the
negative influences which are part of the exposome family, SDS disrupts skin barrier function and dries out skin. Deeper in the skin, SDS induces
inflammatory and oxidative processes which lead to protein oxidation. The inflammatory and oxidative processes induced by the exposome as well as SDS are intensely intertwined with each other, making SDS-induced skin redness an important and relevant marker for measuring skin stress and resilience against the exposome. In the third and last phase, test products
were applied twice daily. One hour after application of the test products, skin was again challenged with 5% SDS. The skin redness was determined with a Minolta Chromameter CR 400 (Minolta, Japan) using the CIELab colour space. Irritated skin showed a higher red
component which could be quantified by the a* value. Each value represents the average of three recordings. Base redness was set at 0%.
Results Skin was clearly irritated and redness increased by more than 30% at the end of the initial ‘irritation phase’ (Figure 6). During and at the end of the subsequent treatment phase it could be shown that the treatment with CP Complex led to an accelerated and more effective reduction of the initial irritation as compared to the skin which was treated with placebo or the untreated skin. Interestingly and most importantly, at
the end of the third phase of the study the remarkable effect of CP Complex on the resilience of skin could be shown. The formulation containing CP Complex (3%) was almost twice as efficient in making skin more resilient against the skin exposome as the identical formulation which did not contain CP Complex (placebo).
Skin barrier function A study was performed on the face of 13
October 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Redness (%)
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